🔧 Expedition - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your Expedition uses 6 ignition coils (one per cylinder) to create spark. Replacing a weak/bad coil restores smooth running and helps prevent misfires (often felt as shaking, loss of power, or a flashing check engine light).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully; coils sit on hot cylinder heads.
• ⚠️ If the check-engine light is flashing, avoid driving; catalytic converter damage can occur.
• ⚠️ Keep tools/jewelry away from the battery terminals.
• ⚠️ Work in a ventilated area; avoid open flames around fuel vapors.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’re nervous about connectors: remove negative terminal first.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 1/4" drive extension set
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Trim clip removal tool
• Small flat-blade screwdriver
• Torque wrench (inch-pound)
• Flashlight
• Fender cover

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Replace all six - Qty: 6)
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool until you can touch the plastic covers comfortably.
• If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative cable and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• Plan your approach: the front bank coils are easy; the rear bank is tighter near the firewall.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

• Grip the cover and pull upward to release the rubber grommets.
• Use a flashlight to confirm you can see the tops of the coils.

Step 2: (If needed) Create more room for the rear bank coils

• If access is tight at the firewall, remove the upper cowl trim fasteners using a trim clip removal tool.
• Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to help lift stubborn clip centers (don’t pry on painted surfaces).
• Move the cowl panel out of the way just enough to reach the rear coils with an 8mm socket on a 1/4" drive extension.
• Tip: Take a photo before removing clips.

Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector

• Locate the coil you’re replacing (each coil sits directly on top of a spark plug).
• Press the connector lock tab by hand; if it’s stuck, gently assist with a small flat-blade screwdriver.
• Pull the connector straight off (don’t pull on the wires).

Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt

• Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and extension to remove the coil bolt.
• Set the bolt aside where it can’t fall into the engine bay.

Step 5: Remove the ignition coil

• Twist the coil gently left-right to break the seal, then pull straight up.
• If it feels stuck, keep twisting—don’t use excessive force.
• Tip: A slow twist frees the boot.

Step 6: Prep the new coil

• Apply a pea-sized amount of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot of the new coil (it helps sealing and future removal).
• Make sure the old coil’s rubber boot didn’t stay stuck on the spark plug; use a flashlight to confirm the plug top is clear.

Step 7: Install the new coil

• Push the new coil straight down until you feel it seat onto the spark plug.
• Reinstall the hold-down bolt using an 8mm socket.
• Tighten with a torque wrench (inch-pound): Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lb).

Step 8: Reconnect the coil connector

• Push the connector on until it clicks/locks.
• Gently tug the connector to confirm it’s latched.

Step 9: Reassemble and repeat as needed

• If you moved the cowl panel, reinstall clips using the trim clip removal tool as needed to seat them.
• Reinstall the engine cover by aligning it and pressing down firmly.
• If you disconnected the battery, reconnect the negative cable using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes; it should run smoothly.
• Test drive gently and verify no hesitation under light acceleration.
• If the check-engine light was on, you may need to clear codes with a scan tool; if it returns, the spark plug or wiring may be the real issue.
• Recheck that every coil connector is fully clicked in if you have any misfire.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$650 (parts + labor, depending on 1 coil vs all 6)

DIY Cost: $45-$420 (parts only, depending on 1 coil vs all 6)

You Save: $200-$300+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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