How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2018-2019 Ford Escape 2.5L
Step-by-step coil replacement guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2018-2019 Ford Escape 2.5L
Step-by-step coil replacement guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2018, 2019
🔧 Escape - Ignition Coil Replacement
Replacing the ignition coils on your Escape is a straightforward repair. The ignition coils sit on top of the engine and send high voltage to the spark plugs so the engine can run smoothly.
If your Escape has a misfire, rough idle, flashing check engine light, or poor acceleration, a weak coil may be the cause. This guide covers replacing one coil or all four coils on the 2.5L engine.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 30-60 minutes
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool before starting. The cylinder head and ignition coils can be hot after driving.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging ignition coils to reduce the risk of electrical shorts.
- ⚠️ Do not pull on the wiring. Always release the connector tab and pull the connector body.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt and debris out of the spark plug wells. The spark plug well is the deep hole where the coil sits over the spark plug.
- ⚠️ If the check engine light is flashing, avoid driving until the misfire is repaired to protect the catalytic converter.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 1/4-inch ratchet
- 3-inch extension
- Torque wrench inch-pound range
- Plastic trim tool
- Compressed air blow gun
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1-4
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 small tube
Note: Replace only the failed coil if you have a confirmed misfire cylinder. Replace all four if the coils are original and mileage is high.
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Escape on level ground and shift to Park.
- Set the parking brake.
- Turn the ignition fully OFF and remove the key.
- Open the hood and allow the engine to cool.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to a measured amount so small fasteners are not over-tightened.
- Dielectric grease is a non-conductive silicone grease used lightly inside the coil boot to help seal out moisture.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Open the Hood and Locate the Ignition Coils
- Use the hood release inside the cabin, then lift the hood and secure it with the prop rod.
- The ignition coils are on top of the engine, lined up in a row across the valve cover.
- Each coil has one electrical connector and one small retaining bolt.
- Work on one coil at a time.
Step 2: Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable
- Use a 10mm socket and 1/4-inch ratchet to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
- Lift the negative cable off the battery post and move it aside so it cannot spring back.
- Do not touch the positive battery terminal with your tool.
Step 3: Clean Around the Coil Area
- Put on safety glasses.
- Use a compressed air blow gun to gently blow loose dirt away from the ignition coil area.
- This helps stop debris from falling into the spark plug well when the coil is removed.
Step 4: Unplug the Ignition Coil Connector
- Use your fingers to press the locking tab on the ignition coil electrical connector.
- If the tab is stubborn, use a plastic trim tool to gently help release it.
- Pull the connector straight back from the coil.
- Do not pry hard or pull on the wires.
Step 5: Remove the Ignition Coil Retaining Bolt
- Use an 8mm socket, 3-inch extension, and 1/4-inch ratchet to remove the coil retaining bolt.
- Set the bolt in a safe place so it does not fall into the engine bay.
- A magnetic tray helps prevent lost bolts.
Step 6: Remove the Old Ignition Coil
- Grip the ignition coil body by hand.
- Twist it slightly left and right to loosen the rubber boot seal.
- Pull the coil straight up and out of the spark plug well.
- If it feels stuck, keep twisting gently. Do not use metal pry tools on the coil body.
Step 7: Inspect the Coil and Spark Plug Well
- Look at the old coil boot for oil, coolant, cracks, burn marks, or white tracking lines.
- Use a flashlight if available to check inside the spark plug well.
- If oil is inside the spark plug well, the valve cover gasket may be leaking and should be repaired before installing new coils.
- If water or corrosion is present, dry and clean the area before installing the new coil.
Step 8: Prepare the New Ignition Coil
- Apply a very small amount of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot opening of the new coil.
- Use only a light film. Too much grease can prevent the boot from seating fully.
- Compare the new coil to the old coil to make sure the connector shape and bolt tab match.
Step 9: Install the New Ignition Coil
- Push the new ignition coil straight down into the spark plug well by hand.
- You should feel the boot seat over the spark plug.
- Line up the coil mounting tab with the bolt hole.
Step 10: Reinstall the Coil Bolt
- Start the coil bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use an 8mm socket, 3-inch extension, and torque wrench inch-pound range to tighten the bolt.
- Torque to 6 Nm (53 in-lbs)
- Do not over-tighten. The bolt threads into the valve cover area and can strip if forced.
Step 11: Reconnect the Electrical Connector
- Push the coil connector straight onto the new ignition coil until it clicks.
- Gently tug the connector body to confirm it is locked in place.
Step 12: Repeat for Additional Coils
- If replacing more than one coil, repeat Steps 4 through 11 for each ignition coil.
- Use the same 8mm socket, 3-inch extension, and torque wrench inch-pound range for each coil bolt.
- Keep each connector routed the same way it was before removal.
Step 13: Reconnect the Battery
- Place the negative battery cable back onto the negative battery post.
- Use a 10mm socket and 1/4-inch ratchet to tighten the terminal clamp snugly.
- Do not over-tighten the battery terminal.
Step 14: Start the Engine
- Start your Escape and let it idle.
- Listen for a smooth idle.
- If the engine runs rough, turn it off and recheck that every coil connector is fully seated.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Let the engine idle for 2-3 minutes and confirm it runs smoothly.
- ✅ Test drive your Escape gently for 5-10 minutes.
- ✅ If a check engine light was on, it may turn off after several drive cycles if the misfire is fixed.
- ✅ If you have a scan tool, clear the misfire code and recheck for returning codes.
- ✅ If the same cylinder misfire returns, inspect the spark plug, fuel injector, wiring, and engine compression.
- ✅ After battery disconnect, the idle may feel slightly different for a short time while the engine computer relearns idle control.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$280 (parts only)
You Save: $135-$270 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Ignition Coil Connector replace for these Ford vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2019 Ford Escape | - | - | - |
| 2018 Ford Escape | - | - | - |

















