How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2017 Nissan Altima 2.5L
Step-by-step misfire repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2017 Nissan Altima 2.5L
Step-by-step misfire repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Altima - Ignition Coil Replacement
Replacing the ignition coils on your Altima is a straightforward repair. The ignition coils sit on top of the spark plugs and create the high-voltage spark needed for combustion.
If your Altima has a misfire, rough idle, flashing check engine light, or codes like P0301-P0304, a failed coil may be the cause.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 30-60 minutes
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before starting. The ignition coils and valve cover area can get very hot.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging ignition coils to reduce the chance of an electrical short.
- ⚠️ Do not pull on the coil wiring. Pull only on the connector body.
- ⚠️ Replace one coil at a time if possible so the connectors stay organized.
- ⚠️ If the check engine light is flashing, avoid driving until repaired because catalytic converter damage can occur.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4-inch drive ratchet
- 1/4-inch drive 6-inch extension
- 10mm wrench
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Torque wrench inch-pound range
- OBD-II scan tool
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1-4
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 small tube
Tip: If one coil failed, you can replace only that failed coil. If the coils are original and mileage is high, replacing all four can prevent repeat repairs.
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Altima on level ground.
- Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
- Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key or keep the intelligent key away from the vehicle.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool.
- Use an OBD-II scan tool to identify which cylinder is misfiring if you are replacing only one coil.
- Cylinder layout: On the 2.5L inline-4 engine, cylinders are numbered 1-2-3-4 from the passenger side of the engine toward the driver side.
- OBD-II scan tool definition: This tool plugs into the diagnostic port and reads or clears check engine light codes.
- Dielectric grease definition: This is electrical-safe grease used lightly inside the rubber coil boot to help seal out moisture.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the Battery
- Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
- Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the negative battery cable clamp.
- Remove the negative cable from the battery post and place it aside where it cannot spring back.
- Black cable is negative.
Step 2: Remove the Engine Cover
- If equipped, remove the plastic engine cover by lifting it straight upward by hand.
- No tool is usually needed because the cover is held by rubber grommets.
- If it feels stuck, gently wiggle it upward with both hands.
Step 3: Locate the Ignition Coils
- The four ignition coils are mounted in a row on top of the engine valve cover.
- Each coil has one electrical connector and one 10mm retaining bolt.
- If replacing only one coil, match the misfire code to the cylinder number:
- P0301: Cylinder 1, passenger side coil
- P0302: Cylinder 2
- P0303: Cylinder 3
- P0304: Cylinder 4, driver side coil
Step 4: Unplug the Coil Connector
- Use your thumb to press the locking tab on the ignition coil connector.
- If the tab is stiff, use a small flathead screwdriver to gently lift the lock while pulling the connector straight back.
- Do not pry hard. Old plastic can crack.
- Push in first, then pull out.
Step 5: Remove the Coil Bolt
- Use a 10mm socket, 1/4-inch drive ratchet, and 1/4-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the ignition coil retaining bolt.
- Place the bolt somewhere safe so it does not fall into the engine bay.
Step 6: Remove the Old Ignition Coil
- Grip the ignition coil body by hand.
- Twist it slightly left and right to loosen the rubber boot from the spark plug.
- Pull the coil straight upward.
- If it feels stuck, keep twisting gently while pulling upward. Do not use metal pry tools on the coil body.
Step 7: Inspect the Coil Well
- Look down into the spark plug tube with a light.
- Check for oil, water, corrosion, or broken rubber from the old coil boot.
- If oil is present in the spark plug tube, the valve cover spark plug tube seal may be leaking and should be repaired before repeated coil failure occurs.
Step 8: Prepare the New Ignition Coil
- Apply a very small amount of dielectric grease inside the end of the rubber boot.
- Do not fill the boot with grease. A thin smear is enough.
- Too much grease can cause misfires.
Step 9: Install the New Ignition Coil
- Push the new ignition coil straight down into the spark plug tube by hand.
- You should feel it seat onto the spark plug.
- Align the coil mounting tab with the bolt hole.
Step 10: Install and Torque the Coil Bolt
- Start the bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 10mm socket, 1/4-inch drive 6-inch extension, and 1/4-inch drive ratchet to snug the bolt.
- Use a torque wrench inch-pound range with a 10mm socket to tighten the bolt.
- Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)
- Do not overtighten. The bolt threads into aluminum and can strip.
Step 11: Reconnect the Coil Connector
- Push the electrical connector onto the new ignition coil until it clicks.
- Lightly tug the connector by hand to make sure it is locked.
Step 12: Repeat for Additional Coils
- If replacing more than one ignition coil, repeat Steps 4-11 for each coil.
- Use the 10mm socket, 1/4-inch drive ratchet, and torque wrench inch-pound range for each coil bolt.
- Torque each coil bolt to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)
Step 13: Reinstall the Engine Cover
- Align the plastic engine cover with its mounting points.
- Press it down firmly by hand until it seats onto the rubber grommets.
Step 14: Reconnect the Battery
- Place the negative battery cable back onto the negative battery post.
- Use a 10mm wrench to tighten the clamp snugly.
- Do not overtighten the clamp.
Step 15: Clear Codes and Test
- Plug the OBD-II scan tool into the diagnostic port under the driver side dashboard.
- Turn the ignition ON without starting the engine.
- Use the OBD-II scan tool to clear stored misfire codes.
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- The idle should be smooth, and the check engine light should stay off after a short drive if the coil was the issue.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Let the engine idle for 2-3 minutes and listen for smooth operation.
- ✅ Take a short test drive with gentle acceleration.
- ✅ Recheck for codes with the OBD-II scan tool.
- ✅ If the same misfire code returns, inspect the spark plug, fuel injector, wiring connector, and compression for that cylinder.
- ✅ If multiple random misfire codes return, do not keep replacing coils without further diagnosis.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$550 depending on whether one coil or all four are replaced
DIY Cost: $45-$300 parts only
You Save: $100-$250 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hour.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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