🔧 Compass - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your Compass uses a coil-on-plug setup (each spark plug has its own ignition coil). Replacing a bad coil fixes common issues like misfires, rough idle, and flashing check engine light.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before starting (burn risk).
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental short circuits.
• ⚠️ Pull ignition coils straight up—don’t yank the wiring harness.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the spark plug wells (the deep holes the coils sit in).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 6" socket extension
• Torque wrench (in-lb or low-range Nm)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1-4 Replace all four if high mileage
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 Non-conductive grease for boots

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and open the hood.
• If you have a check engine light, write down which cylinder misfires (if known) before disconnecting the battery.
• Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative (-) terminal and tuck it aside.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

• Grip the cover and pull upward to release the rubber grommets, or remove any fasteners using a trim clip removal tool.
• Set the cover aside where it won’t get stepped on.

Step 2: Make room to reach the coils (as needed)

• If the air intake duct blocks access, loosen the clamp(s) using a flathead screwdriver.
• Release any push-clips with a trim clip removal tool, then lift the duct out of the way.

Step 3: Unplug the ignition coil electrical connector

• Find the ignition coils along the top of the engine.
• Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight off. Use needle-nose pliers only if needed, and pull on the connector body (not the wires).

Step 4: Remove the ignition coil hold-down bolt

• Use a 10mm socket, 6" socket extension, and 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the coil’s hold-down bolt.
• Set the bolt aside so it doesn’t fall into the engine bay.

Step 5: Remove the ignition coil

• Twist the coil slightly to break the seal, then pull straight up.
• If the boot feels stuck, keep twisting while pulling—don’t pry on the valve cover.
• Check the spark plug well for oil or water using a flashlight (if you have one). If you see fluid, stop and clean/diagnose before installing the new coil.

Step 6: Install the new ignition coil

• Apply a tiny smear of dielectric grease inside the coil boot. (Dielectric grease is a silicone grease that helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier.)
• Push the coil straight down until it fully seats onto the spark plug.

Step 7: Reinstall the hold-down bolt and torque it

• Start the bolt by hand first (prevents cross-threading).
• Use a torque wrench (in-lb or low-range Nm) to tighten the coil bolt: Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connector

• Push the connector on until it clicks/locks.
• Give it a gentle tug to confirm it’s fully latched.

Step 9: Repeat for any other coils you’re replacing

• Replace coils one at a time so connectors don’t get mixed up.

Step 10: Reinstall the intake duct and engine cover

• Reinstall the intake duct and tighten clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
• Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it down onto the grommets.

Step 11: Reconnect the battery

• Reinstall the negative (-) battery terminal using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
• Test drive for 10 minutes and confirm the check engine light stays off.
• If the check engine light was on, you may need to clear codes with a scan tool after the repair.
• If the misfire returns, the next common checks are spark plugs, plug tube oil, and wiring/connectors.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $80-$260 (parts only)

You Save: $170-$190 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.