🔧 Acadia - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your Acadia uses one ignition coil per cylinder (6 total). A bad coil can cause misfires, rough running, and a flashing check-engine light. The front bank is easy to access; the rear bank usually requires removing the upper intake manifold to reach the coils.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before starting; coils sit near hot engine parts.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the intake ports; cover openings with clean shop towels.
• ⚠️ If the check-engine light is flashing, avoid driving until repaired (can damage the catalytic converter).

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 8mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3" extension
• 6" extension
• Torque wrench (in-lb)
• Torque wrench (ft-lb)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Pick tool
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1-6
• Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and remove the engine cover (it pulls up from rubber grommets).
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.
• Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture/corrosion.
• A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to an exact spec.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover

• Grip the cover firmly and pull straight upward to pop it off the mounting grommets.

Step 2: Identify which coils you’re replacing

• The front bank (closest to radiator) is easy to reach.
• The rear bank (closest to firewall) is typically under the upper intake manifold.
• If doing one coil, do that cylinder only.

Step 3: Remove a front-bank ignition coil (repeat per coil)

• Press the electrical connector lock and unplug the coil connector by hand; use a pick tool gently if the lock is stuck.
• Remove the coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
• Twist the coil slightly, then pull it straight up to remove it from the spark plug.
• Apply a tiny amount of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot (a thin film).
• Install the new coil by pushing it straight down until it fully seats.
• Reinstall the hold-down bolt and Torque to 89 in-lb (10 Nm) using a torque wrench (in-lb).
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 4: Access the rear-bank coils (upper intake manifold removal)

• Loosen the air intake duct clamps using an 8mm socket and move the duct out of the way.
• Disconnect any vacuum/PCV hoses attached to the upper intake using needle-nose pliers and a trim removal tool as needed.
• Unplug any electrical connectors that prevent lifting the upper intake; use a pick tool carefully on stubborn locks.
• Remove the upper intake manifold fasteners using a 10mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and extensions.
• Lift the upper intake manifold off slowly.
• Immediately place shop towels over the exposed intake openings to keep anything from falling in.

Step 5: Replace the rear-bank coils (repeat per coil)

• Unplug the coil connector by hand; use a pick tool only to release the lock.
• Remove the coil bolt using a 10mm socket.
• Twist and pull the coil straight up to remove it.
• Apply a thin film of dielectric grease inside the boot.
• Install the new coil and push down until fully seated.
• Install the bolt and Torque to 89 in-lb (10 Nm) using a torque wrench (in-lb).
• Reconnect the coil connector until it clicks.

Step 6: Reinstall the upper intake manifold

• Remove the old upper intake manifold gaskets and install the new gasket set by hand.
• Remove the shop towels from the intake openings.
• Set the upper intake manifold back into place carefully.
• Install the manifold fasteners finger-tight first, then snug evenly using a 10mm socket.
• Tighten the fasteners in an even crisscross pattern and Torque to 89 in-lb (10 Nm) using a torque wrench (in-lb).
• Reconnect all vacuum/PCV hoses and electrical connectors.
• Reinstall the air intake duct and tighten clamps using an 8mm socket.

Step 7: Reconnect the battery and reinstall the engine cover

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and tighten securely.
• Push the engine cover back onto its grommets until it seats.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and listen for a smooth idle (no shaking).
• Make sure no warning lights are flashing and there’s no strong fuel/air leak sound (hissing).
• If you had a check-engine light for misfire, clear the code with a scan tool, or it may clear after a few drive cycles if fixed.
• Road test for 10-15 minutes and recheck that all connectors/hoses are secure.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $200-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.