How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Subaru Forester (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil swap with tools list, parts, safety tips, intercooler removal notes, and torque specs for 2014, 2015, 2016
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Subaru Forester (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil swap with tools list, parts, safety tips, intercooler removal notes, and torque specs for 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 Forester - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Forester’s ignition coils sit on top of the engine and create the high-voltage spark for each cylinder. Replacing a weak coil can fix misfires, rough idle, flashing check-engine light, and loss of power.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
Assumption: FA20DIT turbo layout with top-mount intercooler removal for access.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cold engine; the turbo/intercooler area gets very hot.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent shorts and accidental cranking.
- ⚠️ Don’t pull on wiring; release connector locks to avoid broken tabs.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of spark plug tubes; blow out debris before removing coils.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 6" extension for 3/8" ratchet
- Torque wrench (5–30 Nm range)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers
- Trim clip tool
- Pick tool
- Compressed air blow gun
- Shop rags
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 4 (replace as needed; best to match/set)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
- Top-mount intercooler to throttle-body seal/gasket - Qty: 1
- Bypass valve gasket - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and move it aside so it can’t spring back.
- Lay out coils in order (Cylinder 1–4) so you don’t mix parts during troubleshooting.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Pull up firmly by hand, or remove fasteners using a trim clip tool if your cover uses clips.
- Set the cover aside.
Step 2: Remove the top-mount intercooler for access
- Loosen intercooler hose clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Remove intercooler bracket bolts using a 12mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet and 6" extension.
- Remove the bypass valve bolts using a 10mm socket.
- Carefully lift the intercooler up and out; wiggle gently to release hoses without tearing them.
- A pick tool helps stubborn hose edges.
Step 3: Blow out debris around each coil
- Use compressed air blow gun and safety glasses to blow dirt away from the coil area.
- This helps prevent grit from falling into the spark plug tube.
Step 4: Unplug the ignition coil electrical connector
- Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight off by hand.
- If the tab is stubborn, use a pick tool gently to lift the lock while you pull.
- Never pry hard on the connector housing.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Remove the coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
- Twist the coil slightly, then pull straight up to remove it from the spark plug tube.
- Wipe the tube opening area with shop rags if needed.
Step 6: Prep and install the new coil
- Apply a small dab of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot (this helps sealing and future removal).
- Push the new coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
- Install the hold-down bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten the coil bolt using a torque wrench (5–30 Nm range): Torque to 6.4 Nm (4.7 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Reconnect the coil connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks/locks.
- Repeat Steps 3–7 for the remaining coils.
Step 8: Reinstall the intercooler
- Install a new top-mount intercooler to throttle-body seal/gasket and bypass valve gasket if removed.
- Set the intercooler back in place, making sure the couplers are fully seated.
- Tighten bracket bolts using a 12mm socket and bypass valve bolts using a 10mm socket.
- Tighten hose clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Mis-seated hoses cause boost leaks and poor power.
Step 9: Reconnect the battery
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Make sure it’s fully seated and secure.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 2–3 minutes; it should run smooth with no shaking.
- Listen for hissing near the intercooler couplers (a sign of a boost/vacuum leak).
- Test drive gently, then do a few medium accelerations; verify no flashing check-engine light.
- If a check-engine light remains, scan for codes (misfire codes like P0301–P0304 can point to a different issue such as spark plugs or wiring).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$500 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$250 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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