🔧 ProMaster - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your A3.6L uses one ignition coil per cylinder (6 total). Replacing weak coils can fix misfires, rough idle, and flashing check-engine lights, and it’s a straightforward job on the front bank with a bit more disassembly for the rear bank.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-4.0 hours

Assumption: replacing all 6 coils; rear bank requires upper intake removal.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely; hot intake parts can burn you.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts while unplugging coils.
• ⚠️ Do not pull on wiring; always release connector locks first.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the intake; cover open ports with clean rags.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 8mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3" extension
• 6" extension
• Torque wrench (in-lb)
• Torque wrench (ft-lb)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Plastic pick tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Shop light
• Clean rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coils - Qty: 6
• Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
• Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to neutral, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
• Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• Set out 6 small “parts piles” so each coil bolt and connector goes back easily.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover and air intake tube

• Lift off the engine cover (it pulls up from rubber grommets) using your hands.
• Loosen the air tube clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
• Unclip/remove any intake tube retainers using a trim clip removal tool.
• Remove the intake tube and set it aside.

Step 2: Replace the front-bank coils (easier side)

• Locate the three coils on the front bank (radiator side).
• Unplug each coil electrical connector:
  • Use a plastic pick tool to gently lift the lock tab if needed. (A pick is a small plastic “hook” tool that helps release clips without breaking them.)
  • Pull the connector straight off—do not yank the wires.
• Remove each coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket.
• Twist the coil slightly, then pull straight up to remove it.
• Apply a tiny smear of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot. (Dielectric grease helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier.)
• Install the new coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
• Reinstall the hold-down bolt and Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lb) using a torque wrench (in-lb).
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 3: Remove the throttle body and upper intake (for rear-bank coil access)

• Unplug the throttle body connector using a plastic pick tool to release the lock, then pull it off.
• Disconnect any small vacuum/PCV hoses in the way using needle-nose pliers for spring clamps (if equipped).
• Remove the throttle body bolts using an 8mm socket.
• Remove the throttle body and discard the old gasket.
• Remove the upper intake manifold bolts using a 10mm socket with a 6" extension.
• Lift the upper intake manifold off carefully and set it aside.
• Immediately cover the lower intake ports with clean rags to keep bolts/dirt out.

Step 4: Replace the rear-bank coils (firewall side)

• Remove the rags from one port area at a time so nothing can fall in.
• Unplug each of the three rear coils using a plastic pick tool as needed.
• Remove each coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket.
• Remove and replace coils one-by-one (same method as front bank).
• Reinstall coil bolts and Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lb) using a torque wrench (in-lb).
• Reconnect all three rear coil connectors until they click.

Step 5: Reinstall the upper intake manifold and throttle body

• Remove all rags from the intake ports (double-check nothing is left behind).
• Install new upper intake manifold gaskets onto the manifold.
• Set the upper intake manifold in place and hand-start all bolts.
• Tighten intake manifold bolts evenly (crisscross pattern) using a 10mm socket, then Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lb) using a torque wrench (in-lb).
• Install a new throttle body gasket.
• Reinstall the throttle body bolts using an 8mm socket, then Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lb) using a torque wrench (in-lb).
• Reconnect the throttle body connector until it clicks.
• Reconnect any hoses/clamps you removed using needle-nose pliers.

Step 6: Reinstall the intake tube and engine cover

• Reinstall the air intake tube.
• Tighten the clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
• Reinstall any clips using a trim clip removal tool (reverse motion to seat them).
• Push the engine cover back onto its grommets by hand.

Step 7: Reconnect the battery

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and tighten snugly.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 2–3 minutes; it should run smooth with no flashing check-engine light.
• Listen for hissing (a vacuum leak). If you hear one, recheck intake tube clamps and intake/throttle body seating.
• If the check-engine light was on, use a scan tool to clear codes and confirm misfires do not return.
• Tip: recheck all coil connectors—easy to miss.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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