How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Nissan Versa 1.6L (Fix Misfire & Check Engine Light)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) torque spec
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Nissan Versa 1.6L (Fix Misfire & Check Engine Light)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) torque spec
🔧 Versa - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Versa uses one ignition coil per cylinder (4 total). Replacing a bad coil restores smooth running, fixes misfires, and can turn off a flashing/steady check-engine light caused by misfire codes.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
Assumption: 1.6L engine coil-on-plug layout (common on your Versa).
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before working near the valve cover.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental shorts.
- ⚠️ Don’t pull on wiring; always press the connector lock tab first.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of spark plug wells (the deep holes under the coils).
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3" socket extension
- Torque wrench (5-25 Nm range)
- Flat trim tool
- Small pick tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Shop towels
- Flashlight
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 4 if replacing all)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool.
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and move it aside so it can’t spring back.
- Pro tip: Take a quick photo of the layout first.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Use a flat trim tool to gently pop up any plastic retainers (if present).
- Lift the cover straight up and set it aside.
Step 2: Make room to access the coils
- If the air intake duct blocks access, loosen the hose clamp(s) using a 10mm socket or flat trim tool (depending on clamp style).
- Wiggle the duct off and move it aside without forcing it.
Step 3: Unplug the ignition coil connector
- At the coil connector, press the lock tab and pull the connector straight off.
- If it’s stuck, use a small pick tool to gently lift the tab while you pull.
- Pro tip: Never pry on the wires.
Step 4: Remove the ignition coil bolt
- Use a 10mm socket, 3/8" ratchet, and 3" socket extension to remove the coil hold-down bolt.
- Set the bolt somewhere safe so it doesn’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Twist the coil slightly left-right to break the seal, then pull it straight up and out.
- Wipe any dirt around the spark plug well with shop towels before installing the new coil.
Step 6: Install the new ignition coil
- Put a tiny smear of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot of the new coil.
- Push the coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
- Install the hold-down bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench (5-25 Nm range) to tighten the coil bolt: Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
Step 7: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector onto the coil until you feel/hear it click.
- Gently tug it to confirm it’s locked.
Step 8: Repeat for remaining cylinders (if replacing more than one)
- Work one coil at a time so nothing gets mixed up.
Step 9: Reinstall intake duct and engine cover
- Reinstall the intake duct and tighten clamps using a 10mm socket.
- Reinstall the engine cover and any retainers using a flat trim tool.
Step 10: Reconnect the battery
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket and snug it securely.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
- Check for a check-engine light. If it stays on, the code may need to be cleared after the fix.
- Do a short test drive and confirm there’s no hesitation on acceleration.
- If you had a flashing check-engine light before, stop driving immediately if it returns (active misfire can damage the catalytic converter).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$450 (parts + labor, depending on how many coils)
DIY Cost: $40-$320 (parts only, depending on how many coils)
You Save: $100-$200+ by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















