🔧 Murano - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your Murano uses one ignition coil per cylinder (6 total). Replacing a bad coil restores smooth running, fixes misfires, and helps protect the catalytic converters from unburned fuel.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours

Assumption: VQ35 (3.5L) with rear-bank coils under the upper intake manifold.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before starting (hot intake parts burn).
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorting and to protect electronics.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the intake—cover open ports with clean shop towels.
• ⚠️ Do not pry on plastic connectors; use the release tabs to avoid breaking them.
• ⚠️ If the check engine light was flashing, avoid driving until repaired (can damage catalytic converters).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 Nm range)
• 1/4" drive torque wrench (2-20 Nm range)
• 6" extension
• 10" extension
• Universal joint wobble adapter
• Phillips screwdriver
• Flathead screwdriver
• Hose clamp pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Pick tool
• Flashlight
• Magnetic pickup tool
• Shop towels

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1-6
• Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
• Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• Lay out 6 small “hardware piles” or labeled bags (this prevents mixing bolts).
• “Rear bank” means the cylinders near the firewall.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover

• Pull up on the plastic engine cover to release the grommets, or remove retaining fasteners if equipped using a 10mm socket.
• Set the cover aside.

Step 2: Remove the air intake duct (to access the throttle body area)

• Loosen the intake hose clamps using an 8mm socket or flathead screwdriver.
• Unclip/unplug the MAF connector using a pick tool to gently lift the lock tab if needed. MAF is the airflow sensor in the intake tube.
• Remove the intake duct and place a shop towel over any open tube ends.

Step 3: Replace the front-bank ignition coils (easy access bank)

• Locate the three front-bank coils on the side of the engine facing you.
• Press the connector tab and unplug each coil connector (use a pick tool only to help the tab—don’t pry hard).
• Remove the coil retaining bolt using a 10mm socket.
• Twist the coil slightly and pull it straight up to remove it.
• Apply a very small smear of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot. Helps prevent moisture and sticking.
• Install the new coil fully onto the spark plug, then reinstall the bolt and Torque to 7.2 Nm (64 in-lbs) using a 1/4" drive torque wrench.
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 4: Remove the upper intake manifold (for rear-bank coil access)

• Disconnect vacuum/PCV hoses from the upper intake using hose clamp pliers and a flathead screwdriver as needed.
• Unplug the throttle body connector and any nearby intake electrical connectors using a trim clip removal tool to release harness clips.
• Remove the upper intake manifold bolts using a 12mm socket with a 10" extension.
• Lift the upper intake manifold off carefully and immediately cover the lower intake ports with shop towels.
• Remove and discard the old intake manifold gaskets.

Step 5: Replace the rear-bank ignition coils

• With the upper intake off, locate the three rear-bank coils near the firewall.
• Unplug coil connectors, remove each coil bolt with a 10mm socket, then pull coils straight up.
• Install new coils, then reinstall coil bolts and Torque to 7.2 Nm (64 in-lbs) using a 1/4" drive torque wrench.
• Reconnect each coil connector until it clicks.

Step 6: Reinstall the upper intake manifold with new gaskets

• Remove the shop towels from the intake ports (double-check none are left behind).
• Install the new upper intake manifold gaskets in the correct locations.
• Set the upper intake manifold back in place.
• Thread bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten the upper intake manifold bolts evenly (crisscross pattern) using a 12mm socket, then Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) using a 3/8" drive torque wrench.
• Reconnect all vacuum/PCV hoses using hose clamp pliers.
• Reconnect all electrical connectors until they click.

Step 7: Reinstall intake ducting and engine cover

• Reinstall the intake duct and tighten clamps using an 8mm socket or flathead screwdriver.
• Reconnect the MAF connector until it clicks.
• Reinstall the engine cover (press onto grommets or tighten fasteners) using a 10mm socket if required.

Step 8: Reconnect battery

• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and listen for vacuum leaks (hissing) and watch for a rough idle.
• Verify the check engine light stays off; if it returns, recheck coil connectors and intake hose clamps.
• Let the engine reach full operating temperature, then let it idle for 3-5 minutes with all loads off (A/C off, lights off) to help it relearn idle.
• Test drive 10-15 minutes. Confirm normal power and no flashing check engine light.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹10,000-₹28,000 (parts + labor, depending on coils replaced)

DIY Cost: ₹4,000-₹18,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹6,000-₹10,000+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹800-₹1,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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