🔧 Sedona - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your Sedona has one ignition coil per cylinder (6 total). Replacing a bad coil restores smooth running and prevents misfires that can damage the catalytic converters. On the 3.3L V6, the front-bank coils are easy to access, but the rear-bank coils typically require removing the upper intake manifold.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before starting (hot intake parts burn).
• ⚠️ Disconnect the battery negative cable to prevent accidental shorts.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the intake ports—cover openings immediately.
• ⚠️ Do not pry on plastic electrical connectors; release the lock tab first.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3" extension (1/4" drive)
• 6" extension (3/8" drive)
• Universal swivel socket adapter (3/8" drive)
• Torque wrench (in-lb)
• Torque wrench (ft-lb)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Magnetic pickup tool
• Shop rags
• Labeling tape and marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 6
• Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
• Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and remove loose jewelry/clothing that can snag.
• Disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket; tuck the cable aside so it can’t spring back.
• Use labeling tape and marker to mark any vacuum hoses/electrical connectors you unplug. Labels prevent mix-ups later.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption: Rear-bank coils require upper intake manifold removal on your Sedona’s 3.3L layout.

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

• Pull up firmly on the engine cover to pop it off its grommets (use a trim clip removal tool carefully if it’s stubborn).
• Set it aside where it won’t get stepped on.

Step 2: Access the front-bank ignition coils

• Locate the front-bank coils (the bank closest to the radiator).
• If the air intake snorkel blocks access, loosen the hose clamp with a flathead screwdriver and remove the ducting.

Step 3: Unplug and remove a front-bank coil

• Press the electrical connector lock tab and unplug the coil connector by hand. Wiggle, don’t yank.
• Remove the coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and 3" extension.
• Twist the coil slightly to break the seal, then pull it straight up.

Step 4: Install the new front-bank coil

• Apply a very thin film of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot (this helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier).
• Push the new coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
• Install the hold-down bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten the coil bolt with a torque wrench (in-lb): Torque to 80 in-lb (9 Nm).
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 5: Repeat for the remaining front-bank coils

• Replace one coil at a time so connectors don’t get mixed up.
• Use the same 10mm socket process for each front coil.

Step 6: Remove the air intake ducting (for rear-bank access)

• Loosen clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
• Unclip/remove any resonator fasteners using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
• Move the ducting out of the way.

Step 7: Disconnect throttle body/intake connections

• Unplug any electrical connectors at the throttle body area by releasing the lock tabs by hand.
• Disconnect vacuum/PCV hoses using needle-nose pliers (for spring clamps) and twist hoses gently to free them.
• Label each hose/connector using labeling tape and marker.

Step 8: Remove the throttle body (if it blocks upper intake removal)

• Remove the throttle body mounting bolts using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
• Remove the throttle body and old gasket; discard the gasket.
• Cover the opening with a clean shop rag to keep debris out.

Step 9: Remove the upper intake manifold (rear-bank access)

• Remove upper intake manifold bolts/nuts using a 12mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, 6" extension, and universal swivel socket adapter as needed.
• If you drop a fastener, retrieve it with a magnetic pickup tool—do not leave hardware in the engine bay.
• Lift the upper intake manifold off carefully.
• Immediately stuff clean shop rags into the intake ports to prevent anything from falling in.

Step 10: Replace the rear-bank ignition coils

• Unplug each coil connector by hand (release the lock tab first).
• Remove each coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and 3" extension.
• Remove the coil by twisting slightly and pulling straight up.
• Install the new coil (light dielectric grease inside the boot), seat it fully, then reinstall the bolt.
• Tighten with a torque wrench (in-lb): Torque to 80 in-lb (9 Nm).

Step 11: Reinstall the upper intake manifold with new gaskets

• Remove the old intake gaskets and install the new upper intake manifold gasket set.
• Remove all shop rags from the intake ports before installing the manifold. Count rags twice.
• Set the upper intake manifold in place and start all bolts/nuts by hand.
• Tighten evenly in a crisscross pattern using a 12mm socket and torque wrench (ft-lb): Torque to 13 ft-lb (18 Nm).

Step 12: Reinstall the throttle body and intake ducting

• Install the new throttle body gasket, then reinstall the throttle body bolts using a 10mm socket.
• Tighten with a torque wrench (ft-lb): Torque to 7 ft-lb (10 Nm).
• Reconnect all hoses and electrical connectors (match your labels).
• Reinstall the air intake ducting and tighten clamps using a flathead screwdriver.

Step 13: Reconnect the battery

• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Make sure the terminal is snug and fully seated.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 2–3 minutes; it may idle slightly different at first.
• Listen for vacuum leaks (hissing). If you hear one, re-check intake hoses and manifold seating.
• Road-test for 10–15 minutes and confirm no check-engine light and no misfire symptoms.
• If the check-engine light stays on, the code may need to be cleared after the repair.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$950 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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