How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 (Coil-on-Plug)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and ignition coil torque specs for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2016 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 (Coil-on-Plug)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and ignition coil torque specs for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 F-150 - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your F-150 uses one ignition coil per cylinder (coil-on-plug). Replacing weak or failed coils restores smooth running, power, and helps prevent catalyst-damaging misfires.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
Assumption: 5.0L V8 coil-on-plug coils with 8mm hold-down bolts.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely; coils sit on hot valve covers.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the battery negative cable to prevent accidental shorting.
- ⚠️ Do not pull on wiring; release connectors by the lock tab.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of spark plug wells; debris can fall into the cylinder.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension set (3" and 6")
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- Flat trim tool
- Small pick tool
- Torque wrench (in-lb capable)
- Compressed air blow gun
- Shop light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 8 Replace all 8 for best reliability
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
- Throttle body/intake tube clamps (optional) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and remove loose jewelry/metal items.
- Disconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.
- Lay out coils in order so you don’t mix anything up.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Make room to access the coils
- Remove any intake ducting or covers blocking the coil areas using a flat trim tool and 8mm socket as needed.
- If you loosen the intake tube at the throttle body, use an 8mm socket and gently move the tube aside (do not force it).
- Take a quick photo before moving hoses.
Step 2: Unplug one coil electrical connector
- Work one coil at a time to avoid mistakes.
- Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight off.
- If it’s stubborn, use a small pick tool to lift the lock gently. (A pick is a small pointed hand tool used to lift clips without breaking them.)
Step 3: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use an 8mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet and 3/8" extension to remove the single bolt holding the coil.
- Set the bolt aside where it won’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 4: Pull the coil out of the spark plug well
- Twist the coil slightly left-right, then pull straight up by hand.
- If there’s dirt around the opening, blow it away using a compressed air blow gun before fully removing the coil.
Step 5: Prep and install the new coil
- Apply a small dab of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot. (Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture and makes removal easier.)
- Slide the new coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
- Install the hold-down bolt by hand first (prevents cross-threading), then snug it with an 8mm socket.
- Torque to 62 in-lb (7 Nm) using a torque wrench (in-lb capable).
Step 6: Reconnect the coil connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks/locks.
- Gently tug to confirm it’s latched.
Step 7: Repeat for the remaining coils
- Repeat Steps 2–6 for each cylinder.
- Use a shop light to confirm every connector is fully seated.
Step 8: Reinstall intake parts and reconnect the battery
- Reinstall any intake ducting/covers you moved using the 8mm socket and flat trim tool.
- Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes. It should be smooth with no shaking.
- Listen for arcing/ticking noises around coils (should be none).
- If you had a check-engine light, it may take a few drive cycles to go off; if it stays on, scan for codes (a misfire code like P030x can point to a connector not fully seated).
- Road test: light throttle, then moderate throttle. Verify no hesitation.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$950 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $200-$300 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















