🔧 Durango - Ignition Coil Replacement

Ignition coils sit on top of each spark plug and create the high voltage needed to fire the plug. When a coil is weak or dead, your Durango can misfire, idle rough, or turn on the check-engine light.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-3.0 hours

Assumption: Rear coils require upper intake manifold removal on the 3.6L.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorting.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the intake—cover open ports with clean towels.
• ⚠️ Do not pull on wires; unplug connectors by the plastic housings.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3" extension (1/4" drive)
• 6" extension (1/4" drive)
• Torque wrench (inch-pound, 20–200 in-lb range)
• Flat trim tool
• Pick tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Shop light
• Shop towels
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1-6
• Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
• Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
• Disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Lay out coils in order if you’re reusing any, so nothing gets mixed up.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover

• Grab the cover firmly and pull upward to release the rubber grommets (press-in mounts).
• Set it aside where it won’t get stepped on.

Step 2: Replace the front-bank coils (easiest side)

• Locate a coil (small rectangular unit sitting on the valve cover) and its electrical connector.
• Slide the connector lock back using a pick tool (the lock is the small colored tab that prevents unplugging).
• Press the release and unplug the connector by hand.
• Remove the coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
• Twist the coil gently, then pull straight up to remove it. Twisting breaks the boot seal.
• Put a very thin smear of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot (this helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier).
• Push the new coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
• Install the bolt using a 10mm socket, then Torque to 71 in-lb (8 N·m) using an inch-pound torque wrench.
• Plug the connector back in until it clicks, then re-engage the lock.
• Repeat for the remaining accessible (front-bank) coils.

Step 3: Remove the air intake tube (to access the upper intake area)

• Loosen the hose clamps using an 8mm socket.
• Unclip/loosen any attached breather tube(s) using needle-nose pliers if spring clamps are used.
• Lift the intake tube out and set it aside.

Step 4: Remove the throttle body from the intake

• Unplug the throttle body electrical connector (slide lock with a pick tool, then press and pull).
• Remove the throttle body bolts using an 8mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
• Carefully pull the throttle body off and set it aside (do not pry on the plastic intake).
• Remove and discard the old throttle body gasket.

Step 5: Disconnect hoses and connectors from the upper intake manifold

• Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose from the intake using a flat trim tool if it’s tight.
• Disconnect the PCV/breather hose(s) using needle-nose pliers for clamps if needed.
• Unplug any sensors mounted to the intake (press tabs by hand; use a pick tool gently if stuck).
• Move wiring aside so it won’t get pinched during reassembly.

Step 6: Remove the upper intake manifold

• Remove the intake manifold bolts using a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and a 6" extension.
• Lift the manifold straight up and out.
• Immediately stuff clean shop towels into the intake ports to keep hardware and dirt out.
• Remove and discard the old upper intake manifold gaskets.

Step 7: Replace the rear-bank coils

• Repeat the same coil steps as the front bank: unlock connector with pick tool, unplug, remove bolt with 10mm socket, twist and pull coil.
• Install the new coil, then Torque to 71 in-lb (8 N·m).
• Reconnect each electrical connector until it clicks and re-lock it.

Step 8: Reinstall the upper intake manifold

• Remove the shop towels from the intake ports (double-check nothing is left behind).
• Install new upper intake manifold gaskets into the manifold grooves.
• Set the manifold in place carefully, making sure no wires/hoses are trapped underneath.
• Thread all manifold bolts in by hand first using a 10mm socket (no ratchet at first).
• Tighten evenly, then Torque to 105 in-lb (12 N·m) using an inch-pound torque wrench.

Step 9: Reinstall the throttle body and intake tube

• Install a new throttle body gasket.
• Reinstall throttle body bolts using an 8mm socket, then Torque to 71 in-lb (8 N·m).
• Reconnect the throttle body electrical connector.
• Reinstall the air intake tube and tighten clamps using an 8mm socket.
• Reconnect any breather tube(s) and vacuum hoses you removed.

Step 10: Reconnect the battery and reinstall the engine cover

• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Press the engine cover back onto its mounting grommets.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes.
• Listen for vacuum leaks (a loud hissing sound) around the intake manifold area.
• Verify the idle is smooth and there is no flashing check-engine light.
• If the check-engine light stays on, the code may need clearing after the misfire is fixed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $230-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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