🔧 GLE - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your GLE’s ignition coils sit on top of the spark plugs and create the high voltage needed to fire the engine. Replacing a bad coil can fix misfires, rough idle, flashing check-engine light, and loss of power.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before starting (hot parts burn).
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental shorts.
• ⚠️ Do not pull on wiring—only pull on the connector body/lock.
• ⚠️ If the check-engine light was flashing, avoid driving until repaired (can damage the catalytic converters).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3" extension (1/4" drive)
• Torx T20 driver
• Torx T25 driver
• Small flat trim tool
• Torque wrench (2–20 Nm range)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Shop light
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Fender cover

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1-6
• Dielectric grease (spark plug boot grease) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and install a fender cover to protect paint.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal (the “-” terminal), then tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.
• Tip: Replace coils one at a time to avoid mix-ups.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover

• Lift the engine cover straight upward by hand; it’s held by rubber grommets.
• Set it aside where it won’t get stepped on.

Step 2: Make room to access the coils (as needed)

• Use a Torx T20 driver or Torx T25 driver to remove any small intake ducting covers that block access near the top of the engine (fasteners vary by cover).
• Use a small flat trim tool to gently release plastic clips instead of forcing them.
• Tip: Take a quick photo before removing hoses/clips.

Step 3: Identify the coil you’re replacing

• Each ignition coil sits directly on top of a spark plug and has an electrical connector.
• Work on one coil at a time so connectors and hardware return to the same place.

Step 4: Unplug the ignition coil connector

• Use a small flat trim tool to lift/release the connector lock (the small safety tab that prevents unplugging).
• Pull the connector straight off the coil by the connector body (not the wires).

Step 5: Remove the ignition coil retaining bolt

• Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 3" extension to remove the coil hold-down bolt.
• Place the bolt somewhere safe; it’s easy to drop.

Step 6: Remove the ignition coil

• Twist the coil slightly left-right to break the boot free, then pull straight up.
• If it feels stuck, keep twisting gently—don’t pry hard on the valve cover.

Step 7: Prep and install the new coil

• Put a small smear of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot (this helps prevent sticking and keeps moisture out).
• Push the new coil straight down onto the spark plug until it fully seats.

Step 8: Reinstall the coil bolt and torque it

• Start the bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use an 8mm socket to snug it down.
• Use a torque wrench (2–20 Nm range): Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).

Step 9: Reconnect the electrical connector

• Push the connector onto the coil until it clicks.
• Confirm the lock is fully engaged (a partially latched connector can cause a misfire).

Step 10: Repeat for remaining coils (if replacing more than one)

• Repeat Steps 3–9 for each coil you’re replacing.
• Tip: If one coil failed, many owners replace all six.

Step 11: Reinstall covers/ducting and engine cover

• Reinstall any covers/ducts you removed using the Torx T20 driver or Torx T25 driver.
• Press the engine cover back onto the mounting grommets until it seats evenly.

Step 12: Reconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery terminal.
• Make it snug (do not over-tighten the terminal clamp).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 60 seconds. It should run smooth with no shaking.
• Test drive 10–15 minutes and confirm no hesitation under light acceleration.
• If the check-engine light stays on, the code may need clearing (a scan tool can erase stored misfire codes after the fix).
• Recheck that every coil connector is fully latched if you still feel a misfire.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$480 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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