How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2015 Subaru Impreza (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil swap with required tools/parts, safety tips, OBD2 code checks, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2015 Subaru Impreza (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil swap with required tools/parts, safety tips, OBD2 code checks, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015
🔧 Impreza - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Impreza uses one ignition coil per cylinder. Replacing a weak or failed coil can fix misfires, rough idle, flashing check engine light, and loss of power.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully; coils sit near hot metal parts.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the battery negative terminal to prevent accidental shorts.
- ⚠️ If the check engine light is flashing, avoid driving until repaired (active misfire can damage the catalytic converter).
- ⚠️ Pull on the connector body, not the wires, to avoid breaking the harness.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 10mm wrench
- 12mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3" extension
- Torque wrench (5-25 Nm range)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- OBD2 scan tool
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1-4
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and open the hood.
- Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm wrench to remove the negative terminal and move it aside so it can’t spring back.
- Replace coils one-at-a-time to avoid mix-ups.
- Assumption: Torque specs below match the common FB20 coil fastener spec used on this Impreza.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the air intake ducting (for access)
- Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the intake hose clamp(s) and release any plastic clips.
- Use needle-nose pliers to slide spring clamps back on any small breather hose(s), then pull the hose(s) off gently.
- Lift the intake snorkel/duct out of the way so you can reach the coils more easily.
Step 2: Create room on the tight side (battery area)
- If access is tight, remove the battery hold-down: use a 10mm socket to remove the hold-down nuts and bracket.
- Use a 10mm wrench to remove the positive terminal, then lift the battery out carefully.
- If needed, remove the battery tray bolts with a 12mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
Step 3: Unplug the ignition coil electrical connector
- Find the coil (one per cylinder) on the side/top area of each cylinder head.
- Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight off.
- Wiggle the connector—don’t yank wires.
Step 4: Remove the ignition coil
- Use a 10mm socket, 3" extension, and 3/8" ratchet to remove the coil mounting bolt.
- Twist the coil slightly, then pull it straight out. (The rubber boot grips the spark plug tightly.)
Step 5: Install the new ignition coil
- Put a very small smear of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot. (Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier.)
- Push the coil straight onto the spark plug until it fully seats.
- Install the mounting bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with a 10mm socket.
- Torque to 6.4 Nm (4.7 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
Step 6: Reconnect the coil connector
- Push the electrical connector on until it clicks and locks.
Step 7: Repeat for remaining coils (if replacing more than one)
- Repeat Steps 3-6 for any other coil(s) you’re replacing.
Step 8: Reinstall battery and intake parts
- Reinstall the battery tray (if removed) using a 12mm socket.
- Reinstall the battery and hold-down using a 10mm socket.
- Reconnect terminals with a 10mm wrench (positive first, negative last).
- Reinstall the intake ducting and tighten clamps with a flathead screwdriver.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
- Use an OBD2 scan tool to clear misfire codes if needed, then confirm they don’t return.
- Take a short test drive and recheck that all intake clamps/hoses are snug (no hissing/whistling).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$700 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$320 (parts only, depending on 1 vs 4 coils)
You Save: $150-$400 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















