How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2014-2017 Kia Forte (2.0L) – DIY Repair Guide (Trim: EX | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 8 Nm (71 in-lbs) torque spec
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2014-2017 Kia Forte (2.0L) – DIY Repair Guide (Trim: EX | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 8 Nm (71 in-lbs) torque spec for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Forte - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Forte uses coil-on-plug ignition coils (one coil per cylinder) mounted on top of the engine. Replacing them is mostly removal of a cover, unplugging electrical connectors, and swapping the coils—then verifying the engine runs smoothly.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
- ⚠️ Turn ignition OFF and keep keys away from the car while unplugging coils.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable if you’re worried about accidental shorting or check-engine lights.
- ⚠️ Pull straight up on coils—don’t yank on the wiring.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- Torque wrench (inch-pound or small Nm range)
- Trim clip remover
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Replace all four - Qty: 4
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully.
- If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative cable and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.
- Tip: Do one coil at a time to avoid mix-ups.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- If your Forte has a plastic top cover, pull it upward to release the rubber grommets, or remove any fasteners using a 10mm socket.
- Set the cover aside where it won’t get stepped on.
Step 2: Locate the ignition coils
- The coils are lined up on top of the engine valve cover (one per cylinder).
- Each coil has an electrical connector and usually a single small hold-down bolt.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight back.
- If it’s stuck, use a small flathead screwdriver to gently help lift the lock tab while pulling. Do not pry hard.
- Tip: Wiggle the connector, don’t force it.
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and 6" extension to remove the bolt.
- Place the bolt in a towel or tray so it doesn’t disappear.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Grab the coil body and pull straight upward while gently twisting.
- If it’s stubborn, keep the pull straight up—don’t lever against the valve cover.
- Tip: A gentle twist breaks the boot seal.
Step 6: Prep and install the new coil
- Put a tiny smear of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot lip (this helps sealing and future removal). Dielectric grease is non-conductive grease used on electrical boots to prevent moisture.
- Push the new coil straight down into the spark plug tube until it fully seats.
Step 7: Reinstall the coil bolt and torque it
- Start the bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten with a 10mm socket and then use a torque wrench.
- Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)
Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks/locks.
- Lightly tug to confirm it’s secure.
Step 9: Repeat for the remaining coils
- Repeat Steps 3–8 for the other cylinders, one coil at a time.
Step 10: Reinstall the engine cover and battery cable
- Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it into the grommets, or tighten any fasteners using a 10mm socket.
- If disconnected, reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket (snug, not over-tight).
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
- If the check engine light is on, re-check every coil connector is fully clicked in.
- Take a short test drive and verify normal acceleration with no misfire (no bucking or flashing check engine light).
- If you have a scan tool, clear any stored misfire codes and confirm none return.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$480 (parts only)
You Save: $130-$170 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Assumption: stock 2.0L coil-on-plug layout with 10mm coil fasteners.
Guide for Ignition Coil replace for these Kia vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2017 Kia Forte | EX | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2016 Kia Forte | EX | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2015 Kia Forte | EX | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2014 Kia Forte | EX | Inline 4 2.0L | - |


















