How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2015-2020 Mercedes-Benz GLA250 2.0L Turbo (M270) (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 8 Nm torque specs
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2015-2020 Mercedes-Benz GLA250 2.0L Turbo (M270) (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 8 Nm torque specs for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 GLA - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your GLA’s ignition coils sit on top of the spark plugs and create the high voltage that fires the engine. When a coil fails, you can get misfires, rough idle, flashing check engine light, and loss of power.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
Assumption: Stock 2.0L turbo (M270) with coil-on-plug setup.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully; coils sit near hot parts.
- ⚠️ Keep keys away from the car while unplugging coils to prevent wake-ups.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you’ll be tugging hard on wiring.
- ⚠️ Do not pull on wires—only on the connector body.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 1/4" ratchet
- 3" extension (1/4")
- E10 external Torx socket
- Torque wrench (2-25 Nm range)
- Small flat trim tool
- Pick tool
- 10mm socket
- Battery terminal wrench (10mm)
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- Shop light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 4
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool.
- If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
- Work clean—dirt falling into spark plug tubes can cause misfires.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Grab the engine cover at the corners and pull upward firmly to pop it off its rubber grommets (press-in mounts).
- Use a shop light to identify the 4 coils lined up on top of the engine.
Step 2: Unplug one ignition coil (do one coil at a time)
- Locate the coil electrical connector on that coil.
- Use a small flat trim tool or pick tool to lift the connector lock (a small safety tab that prevents unplugging).
- Pull the connector straight off by the plastic housing (not the wires).
- One-at-a-time prevents mixing connectors.
Step 3: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use a E10 external Torx socket with a 1/4" ratchet and 3" extension to remove the coil bolt.
- Set the bolt aside where it won’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 4: Pull the ignition coil out
- Twist the coil slightly left-right to break the seal, then pull straight up.
- If it’s stuck, keep twisting while pulling—don’t pry hard against plastic parts.
- Look down the spark plug tube with the shop light for oil or water. Oil can mean a valve cover leak that should be fixed.
Step 5: Prep and install the new ignition coil
- Apply a tiny smear of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot of the new coil (this helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier).
- Push the new coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
Step 6: Reinstall and torque the coil bolt
- Start the bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench (2-25 Nm range) with a E10 external Torx socket to tighten the bolt: Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
Step 7: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks.
- Re-engage the connector lock (make sure it’s fully seated).
Step 8: Repeat for the other 3 coils
- Repeat Steps 2–7 for each remaining coil.
Step 9: Reinstall the engine cover
- Line up the cover with the mounting points and press down firmly at each corner until it snaps into place.
- If you disconnected the battery, reconnect the negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
- If the check engine light was on, it may take a few drive cycles to go out; a scan tool can clear codes immediately (optional).
- Test drive 10-15 minutes. Recheck for any misfire feel under light acceleration.
- If you still have a misfire, the next common items are spark plugs or a wiring/connector issue.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $400-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $280-$430 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















