How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2015-2019 Subaru Outback (Trim: 2.5i | Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2015-2019 Subaru Outback (Trim: 2.5i | Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Ignition Coils - Replacement
Your Outback uses a flat-four engine, so the ignition coils sit on the sides of the engine and are easy to reach once the intake ducting is out of the way. Replacing a weak coil can fix misfires, rough idle, hesitation, and check-engine lights.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Let the engine cool fully before starting. Coils sit near hot engine parts.
- Turn the ignition off and remove the key before unplugging any coil connectors.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you want maximum safety while working near wiring.
- Keep dirt out of the spark plug wells. Debris can cause misfires after the repair.
- Do not pull on the wire itself when removing connectors. Use the connector body.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- 3-inch extension
- Flat trim tool
- Torque wrench
- Needle-nose pliers
- Dielectric grease
- Gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 4
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool completely.
- If the engine is misfiring badly, avoid driving it far before repair.
- Work one cylinder at a time so plug wire routing and connectors stay organized.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover and intake tube
- Use your hands to lift off the engine cover if equipped.
- Use a screwdriver or small socket if needed to loosen the air intake duct clamps.
- Remove the intake tube enough to clear access to the ignition coils.
- Keep all clamps in order.
Step 2: Disconnect the battery if desired
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Set the cable aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
- This is optional, but it reduces the chance of a short while unplugging coils.
Step 3: Unplug the ignition coil
- Find the coil on the side of the engine for the cylinder you are replacing.
- Press the lock tab and gently unplug the connector.
- If the plug is stuck, use a flat trim tool to help release the tab without breaking it.
Step 4: Remove the ignition coil
- Use a 10mm socket, 3/8-inch ratchet, and 3-inch extension to remove the coil hold-down bolt.
- Pull the coil straight out of the spark plug well.
- If it resists, twist it slightly while pulling upward.
Step 5: Inspect the spark plug well
- Look for oil, water, rust, or debris in the well.
- If debris is present, remove it before installing the new coil.
- A clean well prevents repeat misfires.
Step 6: Install the new ignition coil
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease inside the coil boot if desired.
- Push the new coil straight down onto the spark plug until fully seated.
- Install the hold-down bolt by hand first.
- Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the bolt to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs).
Step 7: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector onto the new coil until the lock clicks.
- Make sure the connector is fully seated and cannot pull back off easily.
Step 8: Reinstall the intake tube and engine cover
- Reinstall the intake duct and tighten the clamps.
- Reinstall the engine cover if removed.
- If you disconnected the battery, reconnect the negative terminal with a 10mm socket.
Step 9: Repeat for the remaining coils if needed
- If one coil has failed due to age, check the others closely.
- Replace any coil that shows cracking, oil damage, or heat damage.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Confirm the idle is smooth and the check-engine light is off.
- If the light stays on, clear codes with a scan tool and recheck for misfires.
- Take a short test drive and make sure acceleration is normal.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $320-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$260 (parts only)
You Save: $200-$390 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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