🔧 Legacy - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your Legacy uses one ignition coil per cylinder (4 total). Replacing a bad coil restores smooth running and prevents misfires that can damage the catalytic converter.

Assumption: Stock 2.5L engine with top-access coils (no aftermarket parts).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; coils sit near hot components.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental shorting.
• ⚠️ Do not pull on wiring; press the connector lock tab and pull the plug body.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of spark plug tubes; debris can cause misfires.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3" extension (1/4" drive)
• 6" extension (1/4" drive)
• Torque wrench (2–20 Nm range)
• Flat trim tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flashlight
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 4 if replacing all)
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
• Disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket and move the cable aside so it can’t spring back.
• Take a photo of hose/clip routing first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove intake pieces for access (as needed)

• Use a flat trim tool to pop up any plastic push-clips holding the intake snorkel/duct (if equipped).
• Use a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet to loosen the air duct clamps and remove the duct from the air box/throttle body area (set it aside).
• If the passenger-side coils feel tight to reach, remove the upper air box section using the 10mm socket and needle-nose pliers for hose clamps.

Step 2: Locate the ignition coils

• Use a flashlight to find the coils on top of each cylinder head (two on each side of the engine).
• Each coil sits in a spark plug tube and is held by a single small bolt.

Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector

• Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight off the coil.
• If it’s stuck, use a flat trim tool gently to help the tab release (don’t pry hard).
• Pull the connector body, not the wires.

Step 4: Remove the coil retaining bolt

• Use a 10mm socket, 3" extension, and 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the coil bolt.
• Set the bolt somewhere safe (it’s easy to drop).

Step 5: Remove the ignition coil

• Twist the coil slightly by hand to break the seal, then pull it straight up and out.
• If it’s tight, use slow rocking motion—do not use metal tools against the valve cover.

Step 6: Install the new ignition coil

• Apply a very small amount of dielectric grease inside the coil boot (the rubber end that seals to the spark plug). Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier.
• Push the new coil straight down into the spark plug tube until it fully seats.

Step 7: Reinstall and torque the coil bolt

• Thread the bolt in by hand first (prevents cross-threading).
• Tighten with a 10mm socket and then torque with a torque wrench (2–20 Nm range): Torque to 6.4 Nm (4.7 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connector

• Push the connector on until it clicks.
• Gently tug-test the connector to confirm it’s locked.

Step 9: Repeat for remaining coils (if replacing more than one)

• Use the same 10mm socket, extensions, and procedure on the other cylinders.
• Replace coils in pairs if one side failed.

Step 10: Reinstall intake parts and reconnect battery

• Reinstall the air box/ducting and clamps using a 10mm socket.
• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes; it should run smooth with no flashing check engine light.
• Take a short test drive and recheck for hesitation under light acceleration.
• If the check engine light stays on, the code may need to be cleared after the fix (a parts-store scanner can do this).
• Recheck that every coil connector is fully clicked in and that no hoses were left disconnected.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$650 (parts + labor, depending on how many coils)

DIY Cost: $60-$400 (parts only, depending on how many coils)

You Save: $190-$250+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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