🔧 Expedition - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your Expedition uses coil-on-plug ignition coils (one coil per cylinder). Replacing a bad coil restores smooth running, fixes misfires, and helps prevent catalytic converter damage from unburned fuel.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully; the turbos and charge pipes get very hot.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts and to avoid setting extra fault codes.
• ⚠️ Pull on electrical connectors by the connector body, not the wires.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the spark plug wells; debris can cause misfires.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 8mm socket
• 7mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/4" drive extension set (3" and 6")
• 3/8" drive extension set (6" and 10")
• 3/8" drive universal joint
• Trim clip removal tool
• Small flathead screwdriver
• Torque wrench (inch-pound)
• Flashlight
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1-6 (replace only failed coils or all as preventive)
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
• Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1 (only if upper intake is removed)

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧰 Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• 🧰 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and move it aside so it can’t spring back.
• 🧰 Tip: Take a quick photo of each area before unplugging.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

• Grip the cover firmly and pull upward to release the rubber grommets, or remove any fasteners using a 10mm socket (varies by cover style).
• Set the cover aside.

Step 2: Make room to reach the coils

• On the front bank, you can usually access coils directly with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 8mm socket.
• For tighter areas, loosen intake/charge tube clamps using a 7mm socket and reposition the tube for access.
• Use a flashlight to locate the coil you’re replacing (the coils sit on top of the spark plug wells).
• Universal joint = a swivel that helps at angles.

Step 3: Unplug the ignition coil electrical connector

• Press the connector lock tab by hand; if it’s stubborn, gently help the tab with a small flathead screwdriver.
• Pull the connector straight off the coil.

Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt

• Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet (and an extension if needed) to remove the bolt.
• Keep the bolt safe; you’ll reuse it unless your new coil includes one.

Step 5: Remove the ignition coil

• Twist the coil slightly, then pull straight up to lift the rubber boot off the spark plug.
• If it feels stuck, continue gentle twisting—don’t pry hard on the valve cover.

Step 6: Prep and install the new coil

• Apply a small dab of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot. (This helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier.)
• Push the new coil straight down until you feel it seat onto the spark plug.

Step 7: Reinstall the coil bolt and torque it

• Thread the bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten using an 8mm socket, then finish with a torque wrench (inch-pound).
• Torque to 62 in-lb (7 Nm)

Step 8: Reconnect the coil connector

• Push the connector on until it clicks/locks.
• Gently tug to confirm it’s fully seated.

Step 9: Repeat for any other coils being replaced

• Use the same process coil-by-coil so you don’t mix up connectors.
• For hard-to-reach rear bank coils, use a 3/8" drive ratchet, 10" extension, and 3/8" universal joint.
• Tip: Work slowly to avoid breaking tabs.

Step 10: Reassemble anything you moved

• Reposition any intake/charge tubes and tighten clamps using a 7mm socket.
• Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it back onto the grommets (or tighten fasteners using a 10mm socket).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• ✅ Start the engine and listen/feel for a smooth idle (no shaking).
• ✅ If you had a check engine light for a misfire, clear codes with a scan tool if available; otherwise, it may clear after a few drive cycles if the problem is fixed.
• ✅ Road test: light acceleration first, then moderate acceleration. Stop if the engine flashes the check engine light (active misfire).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$450 (parts only, depending on how many coils)

You Save: $150-$350 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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