How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2014 Toyota Tundra (Coil-on-Plug)
Step-by-step COP coil swap with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) torque spec for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2014 Toyota Tundra (Coil-on-Plug)
Step-by-step COP coil swap with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) torque spec for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
🔧 Tundra - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Tundra uses a coil-on-plug (COP) ignition system, meaning each spark plug has its own ignition coil mounted directly on top. Replacing a bad coil restores smooth idle, power, and prevents misfires that can damage the catalytic converters.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
Assumption: 5.7L V8 uses 8 COP coils with 10mm hold-down bolts.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
- 🛑 Turn ignition OFF and keep the key/fob away from the truck.
- 🛑 Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental shorting.
- 🛑 Do not pull on wiring—release connectors by the lock tab.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" ratchet
- 6" socket extension
- Torque wrench (inch-pound or Nm capable)
- Flat trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Shop light
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 8 if replacing all)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.
- If you’re replacing only one coil, note the cylinder location first so you don’t mix parts.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Pull up on the plastic engine cover to release it, or remove fasteners using a 10mm socket if yours is bolted down.
- Set the cover aside where it won’t get stepped on.
Step 2: Create room to access the coils
- If the air intake tube blocks access on the passenger side, loosen the hose clamps using the flat trim tool (or the clamp’s screw head) and reposition the tube.
- Move any wiring clips out of the way using the flat trim tool.
Step 3: Unplug the ignition coil electrical connector
- Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight off.
- If it’s stuck, gently help the tab with a flat trim tool—don’t pry hard.
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" ratchet, and 6" socket extension to remove the single bolt holding the coil down.
- Keep the bolt safe—it’s easy to drop.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Twist the coil slightly left-right, then pull straight up to remove it from the spark plug tube.
- If it fights you, twist more—don’t yank.
Step 6: Prep and install the new coil
- Put a small dab of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot of the new coil. (Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps keep moisture out and prevents the boot from sticking.)
- Push the new coil straight down until you feel it fully seat on the spark plug.
Step 7: Reinstall and torque the coil bolt
- Thread the bolt in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench with a 10mm socket to tighten: Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the coil connector and repeat as needed
- Push the connector on until it clicks/locks.
- Repeat Steps 3–7 for any other coils you’re replacing.
- Replace coils one at a time to avoid mix-ups.
Step 9: Reassemble intake/cover and reconnect battery
- Reinstall the intake tube and tighten clamps using the flat trim tool (or clamp screw head).
- Reinstall the engine cover.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes. It should idle smoothly.
- Listen for clicking, arcing, or a “dead miss.” If present, shut it off and re-check that the coil is fully seated and the connector is clicked in.
- If the check engine light was on for a misfire, use a scan tool to clear codes and confirm they don’t return after a short test drive.
- Do a 10–15 minute road test with light and moderate acceleration.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $200-$650 (parts + labor, depending on how many coils)
DIY Cost: $40-$480 (parts only, depending on how many coils)
You Save: $160-$170 by doing it yourself! (single coil example)
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















