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2014 Toyota Tundra
2007 - 2014 Toyota Tundra
V6 4.0L
Compatible with more variants.
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How to Replace Ignition Coils 2007-13 Toyota Tundra

How to Replace Ignition Coils 2007-13 Toyota Tundra

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10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
6"
6"
Extension
1/4
1/4
Torque Wrench
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How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2014 Toyota Tundra (Coil-on-Plug)

Step-by-step COP coil swap with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) torque spec for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014

How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2014 Toyota Tundra (Coil-on-Plug)

Step-by-step COP coil swap with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) torque spec for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014

Orion
Orion

🔧 Tundra - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your Tundra uses a coil-on-plug (COP) ignition system, meaning each spark plug has its own ignition coil mounted directly on top. Replacing a bad coil restores smooth idle, power, and prevents misfires that can damage the catalytic converters.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

Assumption: 5.7L V8 uses 8 COP coils with 10mm hold-down bolts.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
  • 🛑 Turn ignition OFF and keep the key/fob away from the truck.
  • 🛑 Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental shorting.
  • 🛑 Do not pull on wiring—release connectors by the lock tab.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4" ratchet
  • 6" socket extension
  • Torque wrench (inch-pound or Nm capable)
  • Flat trim tool
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Shop light
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 8 if replacing all)
  • Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.
  • If you’re replacing only one coil, note the cylinder location first so you don’t mix parts.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

  • Pull up on the plastic engine cover to release it, or remove fasteners using a 10mm socket if yours is bolted down.
  • Set the cover aside where it won’t get stepped on.

Step 2: Create room to access the coils

  • If the air intake tube blocks access on the passenger side, loosen the hose clamps using the flat trim tool (or the clamp’s screw head) and reposition the tube.
  • Move any wiring clips out of the way using the flat trim tool.

Step 3: Unplug the ignition coil electrical connector

  • Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight off.
  • If it’s stuck, gently help the tab with a flat trim tool—don’t pry hard.

Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt

  • Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" ratchet, and 6" socket extension to remove the single bolt holding the coil down.
  • Keep the bolt safe—it’s easy to drop.

Step 5: Remove the ignition coil

  • Twist the coil slightly left-right, then pull straight up to remove it from the spark plug tube.
  • If it fights you, twist more—don’t yank.

Step 6: Prep and install the new coil

  • Put a small dab of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot of the new coil. (Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps keep moisture out and prevents the boot from sticking.)
  • Push the new coil straight down until you feel it fully seat on the spark plug.

Step 7: Reinstall and torque the coil bolt

  • Thread the bolt in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a torque wrench with a 10mm socket to tighten: Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect the coil connector and repeat as needed

  • Push the connector on until it clicks/locks.
  • Repeat Steps 3–7 for any other coils you’re replacing.
  • Replace coils one at a time to avoid mix-ups.

Step 9: Reassemble intake/cover and reconnect battery

  • Reinstall the intake tube and tighten clamps using the flat trim tool (or clamp screw head).
  • Reinstall the engine cover.
  • Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes. It should idle smoothly.
  • Listen for clicking, arcing, or a “dead miss.” If present, shut it off and re-check that the coil is fully seated and the connector is clicked in.
  • If the check engine light was on for a misfire, use a scan tool to clear codes and confirm they don’t return after a short test drive.
  • Do a 10–15 minute road test with light and moderate acceleration.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $200-$650 (parts + labor, depending on how many coils)

DIY Cost: $40-$480 (parts only, depending on how many coils)

You Save: $160-$170 by doing it yourself! (single coil example)

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.


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