🔧 Cherokee - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your Cherokee uses a coil-on-plug setup (each spark plug has its own ignition coil sitting directly on top). Replacing a bad coil can fix misfires, rough idle, flashing check-engine light, and loss of power.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
• ⚠️ Keep the key fob away from the vehicle while working so the ignition can’t be turned on.
• ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is recommended to prevent accidental shorts and surprise electrical activity.
• ⚠️ Do not pull on wires—only press the connector lock and pull the plug body.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 1/4-inch drive ratchet
• 6-inch socket extension
• Torque wrench 20-200 in-lb
• Flathead screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Shop flashlight
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1 or replace all four
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine fully cool.
• Disconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket. Move the cable aside so it can’t spring back.
• Take a quick photo before unplugging anything.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption: This is the 2.4L engine with individual coils on top of the valve cover.

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

• Grip the cover firmly and pull upward to release the rubber grommets from their mounting pegs.
• If a clip or fastener is present on your cover, remove it with a trim clip removal tool before lifting.
• Set the cover aside where it won’t get stepped on.

Step 2: Make room at the top of the engine (air duct if needed)

• If the air intake duct blocks access, loosen the hose clamp(s) with a flathead screwdriver.
• Disconnect any small breather hose(s) using needle-nose pliers to slide the clamp back, then twist/pull the hose off.
• Lift the duct out and set it aside.

Step 3: Unplug the ignition coil electrical connector

• Locate the coil you’re replacing on top of the engine (one per cylinder).
• Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight back off the coil.
• If it’s stuck, gently help it with a flathead screwdriver (light pressure only).

Step 4: Remove the ignition coil retaining bolt

• Remove the coil bolt using a 10mm socket, 6-inch socket extension, and 1/4-inch drive ratchet.
• Put the bolt somewhere safe so it doesn’t fall into the engine bay.

Step 5: Pull the ignition coil out

• Twist the coil slightly left and right to break it loose.
• Pull straight upward to remove it from the spark plug tube.
• Inspect the coil boot (the rubber tube). If you see oil inside the tube, the valve cover seal may be leaking and can cause repeat misfires.

Step 6: Install the new ignition coil

• Apply a tiny smear of dielectric grease inside the end of the coil boot (this is an insulating grease that helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier).
• Slide the coil straight down onto the spark plug until it seats fully.
• Reinstall the bolt by hand first (prevents cross-threading), then tighten with a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lb) using a torque wrench 20-200 in-lb.

Step 7: Reconnect the coil connector

• Push the electrical connector on until you feel/hear it click.
• Light tug test: it shouldn’t pull off.

Step 8: Reassemble what you removed

• Reinstall the air intake duct (if removed) and tighten clamps with a flathead screwdriver.
• Reinstall the engine cover by lining up the grommets and pressing down firmly.

Step 9: Reconnect the battery

• Reconnect the negative cable and tighten with a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
• If the check-engine light was flashing before, it should stop flashing immediately after the misfire is fixed.
• If you have a code reader, clear stored misfire codes and recheck after a short drive.
• Test drive 10-15 minutes and confirm no hesitation under acceleration.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$320 (parts only, depends on 1 coil vs all 4)

You Save: $100-$200+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.