🔧 QX60 - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your QX60 uses one ignition coil per spark plug (6 total). Replacing a bad coil restores smooth running and prevents misfires that can damage the catalytic converters.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.5 hours

Assumption: Your QX60 has the 3.5L VQ-series V6; steps match OEM layout.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; intake and exhaust parts get very hot.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts and to protect electronics.
• ⚠️ Do not pull on wiring; press the connector lock tab and pull the connector body.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the intake and spark plug tubes; contamination can cause misfires.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 8mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3" extension
• 6" extension
• Torque wrench (in-lb)
• Torque wrench (ft-lb)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Shop towels
• Masking tape
• Paint marker
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 6
• Upper intake plenum gasket set - Qty: 1
• Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and isolate it so it can’t spring back. Prevents accidental shorts.
• Use masking tape and a paint marker to label any hoses/connectors you unplug from the intake. This avoids mix-ups during reassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover

• Lift the plastic engine cover straight up to release the rubber grommets. Use a trim clip removal tool gently if it feels stuck.

Step 2: Replace the front bank coils (easiest side)

• On the front side of the engine, locate the three coils (one per cylinder).
• Press the connector lock tab and unplug the coil connector by hand. Use a flat-blade screwdriver only to gently help the tab if needed.
• Remove the coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 3" extension.
• Twist the coil slightly, then pull it straight up out of the spark plug tube.
• Put a tiny smear of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot. Helps seal and prevents sticking.
• Install the new coil straight down until it fully seats.
• Reinstall the hold-down bolt with a 10mm socket and tighten to Torque to 7 N·m (62 in-lb).
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
• Repeat for the other two front coils.

Step 3: Remove the air intake ducting to access the rear bank

• Loosen the intake hose clamps using an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver (whichever your clamps use).
• Unplug the air duct sensor connector(s) by hand.
• Remove the air duct/boot assembly and set it aside on a clean surface.

Step 4: Remove the upper intake plenum (rear coils are underneath)

• Unplug the throttle body electrical connector(s) by hand.
• Use needle-nose pliers to release any small hose clamps, then remove the vacuum/PCV hoses from the plenum. Label each one with masking tape.
• Cover open hose ends with a clean shop towel to keep dirt out.
• Remove the throttle body mounting bolts using a 10mm socket and set the throttle body aside carefully (do not stretch the wiring).
• Remove the upper intake plenum bolts using a 10mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and 6" extension.
• Lift the plenum straight up. Immediately place shop towels over the lower intake openings so nothing can fall in.

Step 5: Replace the rear bank coils

• You can now see the three rear coils.
• Unplug each coil connector by hand.
• Remove each coil hold-down bolt using a 10mm socket.
• Twist and pull each coil straight up to remove.
• Apply a small amount of dielectric grease inside each new boot, install each coil, and tighten the bolt to Torque to 7 N·m (62 in-lb).
• Reconnect each coil connector until it clicks.

Step 6: Reinstall the intake plenum and throttle body with new gaskets

• Remove the old plenum gasket(s) and install the new upper intake plenum gasket set. Make sure they sit flat and do not pinch.
• Reinstall the plenum and hand-start all bolts to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten the plenum bolts evenly in stages using a torque wrench (ft-lb): Torque to 25 N·m (18 ft-lb).
• Install a new throttle body gasket, then reinstall the throttle body bolts using a torque wrench (in-lb): Torque to 10 N·m (89 in-lb).
• Reconnect all vacuum/PCV hoses (use your labels) and reconnect throttle body connector(s).

Step 7: Reinstall intake ducting and engine cover

• Reinstall the air duct/boot and tighten the clamps using an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver.
• Reconnect any air duct sensor connector(s).
• Press the engine cover back onto its grommets until it seats.

Step 8: Reconnect the battery

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and snug it securely.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes. A slightly rough idle at first can happen after battery disconnect; it should stabilize.
• Listen for hissing (vacuum leak). If you hear one, recheck hose connections and plenum seating.
• If the check engine light was on, clear codes with a scan tool after the repair. If misfire returns, recheck coil connectors and plenum gaskets.
• Do a short test drive. Confirm smooth acceleration and no flashing check engine light.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$720 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$330+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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