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2013 Toyota Highlander
2008 - 2016 Toyota Highlander
V6 3.5L
Compatible with more variants.
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DIY 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 Toyota Highlander Replacing Spark Plugs & Coils

DIY 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 Toyota Highlander Replacing Spark Plugs & Coils

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10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
12mm
12mm
Socket
or (7/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
3/8
3/8
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3/8
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How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2013 Toyota Highlander Hybrid

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and rear coil access for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2013 Toyota Highlander Hybrid

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and rear coil access for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

Orion
Orion

🔧 Highlander - Ignition Coil Replacement

Replacing the ignition coils on your Highlander means removing the coil-on-plug units that sit directly on top of the spark plugs. A failed coil can cause misfires, rough running, poor fuel economy, or a flashing check engine light.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Your Highlander is a hybrid, so avoid touching any orange high-voltage cables or hybrid components.
  • ⚠️ Turn the vehicle OFF and keep the key fob at least 15 feet away so the hybrid system cannot wake up unexpectedly.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal before working near engine electrical connectors.
  • ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before starting. The rear ignition coils are near hot exhaust and tight engine-bay areas.
  • ⚠️ Replace coils one at a time if possible so connectors and positions do not get mixed up.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 3/8-inch torque wrench
  • 3-inch extension
  • 6-inch extension
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Paint marker
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Ignition coil - Qty: 1-6 as needed
  • Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1 if removing the intake manifold
  • Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1 if throttle body is removed
  • Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 small tube

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Highlander on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • 🔑 Turn the power switch OFF and remove the key fob from the vehicle area.
  • 🔋 Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable using a 10mm socket. The 12V battery supplies normal vehicle electronics, separate from the orange high-voltage hybrid battery.
  • 🧊 Let the engine cool for at least 30-60 minutes before touching ignition coils.
  • 📝 Use a paint marker to label hoses and connectors before removal. This makes reassembly much easier for a first-time DIYer.
  • 📌 Assumption: front-bank coils can be replaced directly; rear-bank coils require upper intake manifold removal for access.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Engine Cover

  • Use both hands to lift the plastic engine cover straight upward.
  • If it feels stuck, gently rock it side to side. It is held by rubber grommets, not screws.
  • Set the cover aside where it cannot be stepped on.
  • Pull upward evenly.

Step 2: Disconnect the 12V Battery Negative Cable

  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
  • Lift the negative cable off the battery post and move it aside so it cannot spring back.
  • Wait at least 90 seconds before unplugging engine connectors.

Step 3: Locate the Ignition Coils

  • The ignition coils are black electrical units mounted on top of the spark plug tubes.
  • The front bank has three coils facing the radiator and is easier to reach.
  • The rear bank has three coils close to the firewall and usually requires upper intake manifold removal.
  • Use a shop towel to wipe loose dirt away from the coil area before removal.

Step 4: Replace a Front Ignition Coil

  • Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
  • Press the tab on the coil electrical connector with your thumb or a flat-blade screwdriver, then pull the connector straight back.
  • Use a 10mm socket, 3-inch extension, and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the coil hold-down bolt.
  • Twist the coil gently by hand, then pull it straight upward out of the spark plug tube.
  • Apply a very small amount of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot. Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps seal out moisture.
  • Push the new coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
  • Install the coil bolt using a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench.
  • Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)
  • Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
  • Do one coil at a time.

Step 5: Prepare for Rear Ignition Coil Access

  • Use a paint marker to label vacuum hoses, breather hoses, and electrical connectors around the upper intake manifold.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool to release any harness clips attached to the intake area.
  • Use needle-nose pliers to release spring clamps on small hoses, then slide the hoses off carefully.
  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver only to gently help loosen stuck hoses. Do not pry hard on plastic fittings.

Step 6: Remove the Air Intake Tube

  • Use a 10mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the intake tube clamps.
  • Unplug any attached intake tube connector by pressing the locking tab and pulling straight back.
  • Remove the intake tube and set it aside.
  • Cover the open throttle body area with a clean shop towel if the opening is exposed.

Step 7: Remove the Upper Intake Manifold

  • Use a 12mm socket, 6-inch extension, and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the upper intake manifold bolts and nuts.
  • Use a 14mm socket if a support bracket fastener blocks manifold movement.
  • Lift the upper intake manifold carefully. Check that all hoses and connectors are free before pulling it away.
  • Remove the old upper intake manifold gaskets.
  • Cover the lower intake openings immediately with clean shop towels so nothing falls into the engine.
  • Nothing can fall inside.

Step 8: Replace the Rear Ignition Coils

  • Use a shop towel to clean around each rear coil before removal.
  • Press each coil connector tab with your thumb or a flat-blade screwdriver, then unplug the connector.
  • Use a 10mm socket, 3-inch extension, and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove each coil hold-down bolt.
  • Twist each coil gently, then pull it straight upward.
  • Apply a tiny amount of dielectric grease inside each new coil boot.
  • Install each new coil straight down onto its spark plug.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten each coil bolt.
  • Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)
  • Reconnect each coil connector until it clicks.

Step 9: Reinstall the Upper Intake Manifold

  • Remove the shop towels from the lower intake openings and double-check that no debris is inside.
  • Install the new upper intake manifold gasket set into position.
  • Lower the upper intake manifold straight down by hand.
  • Start all bolts and nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 12mm socket, 6-inch extension, and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten the intake manifold fasteners evenly.
  • Torque to 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs)
  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench to reinstall any removed support bracket fastener.
  • Torque to 37 Nm (27 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Reconnect Hoses, Harnesses, and Intake Tube

  • Use your labels from the paint marker to reconnect every hose and connector to its original location.
  • Use needle-nose pliers to reposition spring clamps fully over the hose nipples.
  • Reinstall the air intake tube.
  • Use a 10mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver to tighten the intake tube clamps snugly.
  • Reconnect any intake tube electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 11: Reconnect the 12V Battery

  • Place the negative battery cable back onto the battery post.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to tighten the clamp.
  • Do not overtighten the battery terminal. It only needs to be secure and unable to twist by hand.

Step 12: Reinstall the Engine Cover

  • Line up the cover with the mounting studs.
  • Press down firmly by hand until the rubber grommets seat.
  • Do not use tools on the plastic engine cover.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Start your Highlander and let it idle for several minutes.
  • 👂 Listen for hissing sounds. A hiss may mean a vacuum hose or intake gasket is leaking.
  • ⚠️ If the check engine light was flashing before, avoid hard driving until misfire codes are cleared and the engine runs smoothly.
  • 🔍 Check that every connector is locked and every hose is fully seated.
  • 🚗 Take a short test drive. Acceleration should feel smooth with no shaking or misfire.
  • 🧠 If warning lights remain, scan for diagnostic trouble codes and clear them after confirming the repair.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$950 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.


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