How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2013 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and misfire fixes for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2013 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and misfire fixes for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Ignition Coils - Replacement
Replacing the ignition coils on your Altima is a straightforward repair. The ignition coils sit on top of the spark plugs and create the high voltage needed to fire each cylinder.
This repair helps fix misfires, rough idle, poor acceleration, and check-engine-light codes like P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, or P0304.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 30-60 minutes
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before starting. Hot plastic connectors and the engine cover can burn your hands.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging ignition coils to reduce the chance of electrical shorts.
- ⚠️ Do not pull on wiring. Pull only on the connector body to avoid damaging the engine harness.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt and debris out of the spark plug wells. A spark plug well is the deep hole where each spark plug and coil sit.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4-inch drive ratchet
- 1/4-inch drive 6-inch extension
- 10mm wrench
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Inch-pound torque wrench
- Compressed air blower nozzle
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1-4
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 small tube
Tip: If one coil failed, you can replace only the failed coil. If the coils are original and mileage is high, replacing all four is a good preventative choice.
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Altima on level ground and set the parking brake.
- 🔋 Turn the ignition off and remove the key/fob from the vehicle area.
- 🧊 Let the engine cool for at least 30 minutes.
- 🧼 Blow loose dirt away from the top of the engine with a compressed air blower nozzle before removing coils.
- 📝 If you are replacing only one coil, match it to the cylinder shown by the trouble code: P0301 is cylinder 1, P0302 is cylinder 2, P0303 is cylinder 3, and P0304 is cylinder 4.
- ℹ️ Cylinder 1 is on the passenger side of the engine. Cylinder 4 is on the driver side.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
- Lift the negative cable off the battery post and move it aside so it cannot spring back.
- Negative terminal usually has a minus sign.
Step 2: Remove the Engine Cover
- Use a 10mm socket, 1/4-inch drive ratchet, and 1/4-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the engine cover bolts.
- Lift the plastic engine cover straight up and set it aside.
- Place the bolts in a small tray so they do not get lost.
Step 3: Clean Around the Ignition Coils
- Put on safety glasses.
- Use a compressed air blower nozzle to blow dust and grit away from the coil area.
- This helps keep debris from falling into the spark plug wells when the coils are removed.
Step 4: Unplug the Ignition Coil Connector
- Find the coil you are replacing. Each coil is a black plastic unit mounted directly on top of the engine.
- Press the locking tab on the electrical connector with your thumb.
- If the tab is stiff, use a small flathead screwdriver to gently help release it.
- Pull the connector straight back by the plastic connector body, not the wires.
- Be gentle. Old connectors get brittle.
Step 5: Remove the Ignition Coil Bolt
- Use a 10mm socket, 1/4-inch drive ratchet, and 1/4-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the coil hold-down bolt.
- Set the bolt aside. You will reuse it unless it is damaged.
Step 6: Remove the Old Ignition Coil
- Grip the top of the coil by hand and twist it slightly left and right.
- Pull the coil straight upward out of the spark plug well.
- If it feels stuck, keep gently twisting while pulling upward. Do not pry hard against the valve cover.
Step 7: Prepare the New Ignition Coil
- Compare the new ignition coil to the old one. The connector shape and rubber boot length should match.
- Apply a very small amount of dielectric grease inside the end of the rubber boot.
- Dielectric grease is a non-conductive silicone grease that helps seal moisture out and keeps the boot from sticking.
- Use only a thin film.
Step 8: Install the New Ignition Coil
- Push the new coil straight down into the spark plug well by hand.
- Make sure the coil seats fully and the bolt hole lines up with the valve cover mounting hole.
- Install the hold-down bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use an inch-pound torque wrench with a 10mm socket to tighten the coil bolt to Torque to 6.9 Nm (61 in-lbs).
- Snug, not gorilla tight.
Step 9: Reconnect the Coil Connector
- Push the electrical connector onto the new ignition coil until it clicks.
- Lightly tug the connector by the plastic body to confirm it is locked in place.
Step 10: Repeat for Any Other Coils
- If replacing all four ignition coils, repeat Steps 4-9 for the remaining coils.
- Work one coil at a time so the connectors and bolts stay organized.
Step 11: Reinstall the Engine Cover
- Set the plastic engine cover back in place.
- Start the cover bolts by hand.
- Use a 10mm socket, 1/4-inch drive ratchet, and 1/4-inch drive 6-inch extension to tighten the cover bolts until snug.
- Do not overtighten the plastic cover bolts.
Step 12: Reconnect the Battery
- Place the negative battery cable back onto the negative battery post.
- Use a 10mm wrench to tighten the clamp until secure.
- Make sure the cable does not rotate by hand after tightening.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
- ✅ The engine should idle smoothly with no shaking or flashing check engine light.
- ✅ If the check engine light was on, it may need several drive cycles to turn off after the misfire is fixed.
- ✅ If you have a scan tool, use it to clear stored misfire codes after replacement.
- ✅ Test drive gently for 10-15 minutes and confirm smooth acceleration.
- ⚠️ If the check engine light flashes during the test drive, stop driving. A flashing light means an active misfire that can damage the catalytic converter.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$280 (parts only)
You Save: $135-$370 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















