How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle) (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs (62 in-lb / 7 Nm)
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle) (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs (62 in-lb / 7 Nm) for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
đź”§ Escape - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Escape uses coil-on-plug ignition coils (one coil per cylinder) mounted on top of the engine. Replacing a bad coil restores smooth idle, power, and prevents misfires that can damage the catalytic converter.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before working near the turbo/engine.
- ⚠️ Keep ignition OFF and the key/fob away from the vehicle while unplugging coils.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts.
- ⚠️ Pull coils straight up—don’t yank on the wiring harness.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 🔸 10mm socket
- 🔸 1/4" drive ratchet
- 🔸 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- 🔸 8mm socket
- 🔸 Small flat-blade screwdriver
- 🔸 Torque wrench (inch-pound, 20-200 in-lb range)
- 🔸 Nitrile gloves
- 🔸 Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 4 if replacing all)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 (small packet)
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- 🔸 Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- 🔸 Open the hood and let the engine cool.
- 🔸 Plan to replace coils one at a time so connectors don’t get mixed up.
- 🔸 A “dielectric grease” is a non-conductive grease that helps seal the rubber boot against moisture.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Use your hands to pull the engine cover straight upward to release it from the rubber grommets.
- Set the cover aside where it won’t get stepped on.
Step 2: Disconnect the negative battery cable
- Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet to loosen the negative (–) battery terminal clamp.
- Lift the cable off the post and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.
Step 3: Unplug the ignition coil electrical connector
- At the coil you’re replacing, use a small flat-blade screwdriver to gently lift the connector lock tab (if equipped), then press the release and pull the connector off.
- Pull the connector housing, not the wires.
Step 4: Remove the ignition coil hold-down bolt
- Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and a 6" extension to remove the coil bolt.
- Put the bolt somewhere safe—you’ll reuse it.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Grip the coil body and pull it straight up to remove it from the spark plug well.
- If it’s stuck, twist the coil slightly while pulling upward (do not pry on the valve cover).
Step 6: Install the new ignition coil
- Apply a very thin smear of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot using a clean fingertip (optional but recommended).
- Push the new coil straight down until you feel it fully seat on the spark plug.
- Reinstall the coil bolt using an 8mm socket, then Torque to 62 in-lb (7 Nm) using a torque wrench (inch-pound).
Step 7: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks/locks into place.
- Gently tug to confirm it’s fully latched.
Step 8: Repeat for any other coils you’re replacing
- Move to the next cylinder and repeat Steps 3–7.
- One coil at a time prevents mix-ups.
Step 9: Reassemble and reconnect battery
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Reinstall the engine cover by lining it up and pressing straight down.
âś… After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes; it should run smooth with no shaking.
- âś… If the check engine light was on, it may take a few drive cycles to clear; if it stays on, the next step is scanning for misfire codes.
- âś… Take a short test drive and recheck for any hesitation under light acceleration.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$400 (parts only, depending on replacing 1 vs all 4)
You Save: $150-$300+ by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Ignition Coil replace for these Ford vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2019 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2018 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2017 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2016 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2015 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2014 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2013 Ford Escape | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |

















