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2015 Ford Escape
2013 - 2019 Ford Escape
Inline 4 2.0L
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How to Replace Ignition Coils 2013-2019 Ford Escape

How to Replace Ignition Coils 2013-2019 Ford Escape

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8mm
8mm
Socket
or (5/16")
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
3"
3"
Extension
1/4
1/4
Torque Wrench
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How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips

How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Escape - Ignition Coil Replacement

On your Escape, the ignition coils sit on top of the spark plugs and send high voltage to fire each cylinder. Replacing them can fix misfires, rough idle, poor acceleration, and a flashing check-engine light when a coil has failed.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 30-60 minutes


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before working; the turbo and upper engine parts can stay very hot.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to reduce the chance of electrical shorts.
  • ⚠️ Do not pull on the ignition coil wires; only release the connector tabs and pull the connector body.
  • ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the spark plug wells. Dirt can fall into the engine if the spark plug is removed later.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 8mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4-inch ratchet
  • 3-inch extension
  • Torque wrench inch-pound range
  • Plastic trim tool
  • Compressed air can
  • Dielectric grease packet
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Ignition coil - Qty: 1-4
  • Ignition coil boot - Qty: 1-4 if not included with coils

Tip: If one coil failed, you can replace only that coil. If mileage is high, replacing all four together is often smarter.


📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Escape on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Turn the ignition off and remove the key from the vehicle.
  • Open the hood and let the engine cool until it is comfortable to touch.
  • Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal, then move the cable aside so it cannot spring back.
  • A torque wrench measures bolt tightness so small bolts do not get stripped or broken.
  • Dielectric grease is a non-conductive silicone grease used lightly inside the coil boot to help seal out moisture.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Engine Cover

  • Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
  • Grasp the plastic engine cover with both hands and pull straight upward.
  • If it feels stuck, use a plastic trim tool to gently lift near the rubber mounting grommets.
  • Set the cover aside where it will not get stepped on.

Step 2: Locate the Ignition Coils

  • The four ignition coils are lined up across the top of the engine.
  • Each coil has one electrical connector and one small retaining bolt.
  • Use a compressed air can to blow loose dirt away from the coil area before removal.
  • Clean first, then remove parts.

Step 3: Disconnect the Coil Electrical Connector

  • Press the connector release tab with your thumb.
  • If the tab is tight, use a plastic trim tool to gently help depress the lock.
  • Pull the connector straight back by the plastic connector body.
  • Do not pull on the wires.

Step 4: Remove the Coil Retaining Bolt

  • Use an 8mm socket, 3-inch extension, and 1/4-inch ratchet to remove the coil retaining bolt.
  • Set the bolt in a safe spot so it does not fall into the engine bay.
  • If replacing multiple coils, work on one coil at a time to avoid mixing anything up.

Step 5: Remove the Old Ignition Coil

  • Grip the ignition coil body firmly by hand.
  • Twist it gently left and right to loosen the rubber boot from the spark plug.
  • Pull the coil straight upward.
  • If it sticks, keep twisting gently while pulling upward. Do not pry hard against the valve cover.

Step 6: Inspect the Coil Well

  • Use a compressed air can to blow out the spark plug well area.
  • Look for engine oil, coolant, water, or heavy corrosion inside the well.
  • If oil is present, the valve cover spark plug tube seal may be leaking and should be repaired before installing new coils.
  • If water is present, dry the area completely before installing the new coil.

Step 7: Prepare the New Ignition Coil

  • Compare the new ignition coil to the old one. The length, connector shape, and mounting tab should match.
  • Apply a small pea-sized amount of dielectric grease inside the rubber coil boot.
  • Do not put grease on the metal electrical terminals.
  • A tiny amount is enough.

Step 8: Install the New Ignition Coil

  • Push the new coil straight down into the spark plug well by hand.
  • You should feel the boot slide over the spark plug.
  • Align the mounting hole with the bolt hole in the valve cover.
  • Install the retaining bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.

Step 9: Tighten the Coil Bolt

  • Use an 8mm socket, 3-inch extension, and torque wrench to tighten the coil retaining bolt.
  • Torque to 6 Nm (53 in-lbs)
  • Do not overtighten. These small bolts thread into aluminum and can strip easily.

Step 10: Reconnect the Electrical Connector

  • Push the electrical connector onto the ignition coil until it clicks.
  • Lightly tug the connector body by hand to make sure it is locked.
  • Repeat Steps 3-10 for any other ignition coils being replaced.

Step 11: Reinstall the Engine Cover

  • Line up the plastic engine cover with its rubber mounting points.
  • Press down firmly by hand until the cover snaps into place.

Step 12: Reconnect the Battery

  • Place the negative battery cable back on the battery terminal.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 1/4-inch ratchet to tighten the terminal clamp snugly.
  • Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)

✅ After Repair

  • Start your Escape and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
  • The idle should feel smooth with no shaking or stumbling.
  • If the check-engine light was on, codes may need to be cleared with a scan tool after repair.
  • Take a short test drive and gently accelerate to confirm the misfire is gone.
  • If the check-engine light flashes during the test drive, stop driving and recheck the coil connector and cylinder location.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$550 depending on whether 1 or all 4 coils are replaced

DIY Cost: $35-$280 parts only depending on coil brand and quantity

You Save: $100-$270 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hour.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Guide for Ignition Coil replace for these Ford vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2019 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
2018 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
2017 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
2016 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
2015 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
2014 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
2013 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
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