🔧 Escape - Ignition Coil Replacement

The ignition coils sit on top of the spark plugs and create the high-voltage spark your engine needs to run smoothly. Replacing a weak coil can fix misfires, rough idle, flashing check engine light, and loss of power.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; the turbo/engine can burn you.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the spark plug holes—debris can damage the engine.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable if you’ll be unplugging multiple connectors at once.
• ⚠️ If the check engine light is flashing, avoid driving until repaired (active misfire can damage the catalytic converter).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 6" 1/4" drive extension
• Inch-pound torque wrench (20-200 in-lb range)
• Foot-pound torque wrench (10-80 ft-lb range)
• Flat trim tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Compressed air nozzle
• Shop vacuum
• Clean shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 4 if replacing all)
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
• Spark plug set - Qty: 1 Recommended if plugs are due

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Let the engine cool fully (at least 30 minutes).
• If you’re replacing more than one coil: use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and move it aside so it can’t spring back.
• Tip: Replace coils one-by-one to avoid mix-ups.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

• Pull up on the engine cover to release the rubber grommets (use a flat trim tool if it’s tight).
• Set the cover aside.

Step 2: Locate the ignition coils

• The coils are mounted on top of the valve cover in a row (one per cylinder) with an electrical connector on each.

Step 3: Clean around the coil(s)

• Use a shop vacuum to remove loose dirt around the coils.
• Use compressed air nozzle to blow debris away from the base of the coil so nothing falls into the spark plug hole.
• Safety glasses on for compressed air.

Step 4: Unplug the coil electrical connector

• Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight off.
• If the tab is stubborn, gently assist with a flat trim tool (don’t pry hard—plastic breaks easily).

Step 5: Remove the coil retaining bolt

• Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and 6" extension to remove the bolt holding the coil down.
• Put the bolt somewhere safe (it’s easy to drop).

Step 6: Remove the ignition coil

• Twist the coil gently left-right to break the seal, then pull straight up.
• If it’s stuck, use steady force—don’t yank the wiring.

Step 7: Prep and install the new coil

• Put a small dab of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot (the rubber tube). Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps seal out moisture and makes future removal easier.
• Push the coil straight down onto the spark plug until it seats fully.

Step 8: Reinstall the coil bolt and torque it

• Start the bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading, then snug it with a 10mm socket.
• Use an inch-pound torque wrench: Torque to 62 in-lb (7 Nm).

Step 9: Reconnect the electrical connector

• Push the connector on until it clicks.
• Give it a gentle tug to confirm it’s locked.

Step 10: Repeat for any other coils

• If you’re replacing multiple coils, repeat Steps 3-9 one coil at a time.
• Tip: Keep parts in cylinder order.

Step 11: Reinstall the engine cover

• Align the cover with its mounting points and press down firmly until it snaps into place.

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✅ After Repair

• If disconnected, reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and tighten snugly.
• Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
• If you have a scan tool, clear misfire codes and confirm none return after a short drive.
• Road test 10-15 minutes, then recheck that the engine cover is secure and no connectors look loose.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$280 (parts only, depending on 1 coil vs all 4)

You Save: $100-$250 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.