🔧 Escape - Ignition Coil Replacement

The ignition coils sit on top of the spark plugs and create the high voltage needed to fire each plug. Replacing them on your Escape is a straightforward repair: remove the engine cover, unplug each coil, unbolt it, and install the new coils in the same positions.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 30-60 minutes

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before starting. The turbocharged 1.6L engine gets very hot.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging ignition coils to avoid electrical shorts.
• ⚠️ Do not pull on wiring. Always release the connector lock and pull from the connector body.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt and debris out of the spark plug wells. A spark plug well is the tube-shaped opening where the coil sits over the spark plug.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 1/4-inch ratchet
• 1/4-inch extension 6-inch
• Torque wrench inch-pound 1/4-inch drive
• Flathead screwdriver small
• Plastic trim removal tool
• Compressed air duster
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coils - Qty: 4
• Dielectric grease packet - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Escape on level ground and shift to Park.
• Set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
• Wear safety glasses and gloves.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket. The negative cable is usually marked with a minus symbol.
• If replacing only one coil due to a misfire code, match the cylinder number carefully. On this engine, cylinder 1 is at the passenger side of the engine, then 2, 3, and 4 moving toward the driver side.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Engine Cover

• Use both hands to lift the plastic engine cover upward from the rubber mounting points.
• If it feels stuck, use a plastic trim removal tool to gently help lift one corner at a time.
• Set the cover aside where it will not get stepped on.
• Tip: Pull straight up, not sideways.

Step 2: Clean Around the Ignition Coils

• Put on safety glasses.
• Use a compressed air duster to blow dirt away from the top of each ignition coil.
• This helps keep debris from falling into the spark plug wells when the coils are removed.

Step 3: Disconnect the Coil Electrical Connectors

• Look at the electrical plug on each coil.
• Use a small flathead screwdriver only if needed to gently lift the connector lock tab.
• Press the release tab and pull the connector straight back by the plastic connector body.
• Repeat this for all 4 coils.
• Tip: Never pull on the wires.

Step 4: Remove the Ignition Coil Bolts

• Use an 8mm socket, 1/4-inch ratchet, and 1/4-inch extension 6-inch to remove the retaining bolt from each ignition coil.
• Place the bolts in a small tray or cup so they do not get lost.

Step 5: Remove the Old Ignition Coils

• Grip one ignition coil firmly by the top.
• Twist it slightly left and right to loosen the rubber boot.
• Pull the coil straight upward out of the spark plug well.
• Repeat for all 4 coils.
• If a rubber boot separates from the coil and stays in the well, remove it carefully before installing the new coil.

Step 6: Prepare the New Ignition Coils

• Compare each new ignition coil with the old one to make sure the shape and connector match.
• Apply a very small amount of dielectric grease inside the end of each coil boot. Dielectric grease is an electrical-safe grease that helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier.
• Do not fill the boot with grease. A light film is enough.

Step 7: Install the New Ignition Coils

• Push each new ignition coil straight down into its spark plug well.
• You should feel the rubber boot seat onto the spark plug.
• Make sure each coil mounting hole lines up with the bolt hole.

Step 8: Reinstall the Coil Bolts

• Start each bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading. Cross-threading means the bolt is going in crooked and can damage the threads.
• Use an 8mm socket, 1/4-inch ratchet, and 1/4-inch extension 6-inch to snug each bolt.
• Use a torque wrench inch-pound 1/4-inch drive to tighten each ignition coil bolt to Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
• Tip: Small bolts strip easily.

Step 9: Reconnect the Electrical Connectors

• Push each connector onto its ignition coil until it clicks.
• Lightly tug the connector body to confirm it is locked in place.

Step 10: Reinstall the Engine Cover

• Line up the engine cover with the rubber mounting points.
• Press down firmly by hand until the cover seats fully.

Step 11: Reconnect the Battery

• Reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Use a 10mm socket to tighten the terminal nut snugly.
• Do not overtighten the terminal.

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✅ After Repair

• Start your Escape and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
• The idle should be smooth with no shaking or flashing check engine light.
• If the check engine light was on before the repair, it may need several drive cycles to turn off if the fault is fixed.
• If you have a scan tool, clear stored misfire codes after installation.
• Road test gently for 10-15 minutes and confirm there is no hesitation, misfire, or rough idle.
• If a misfire remains on the same cylinder after replacing the coil, the spark plug, wiring, fuel injector, or compression may need diagnosis.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $90-$260 (parts only)

You Save: $160-$290 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.