🔧 Traverse - Ignition Coil Replacement

On your Traverse, each cylinder has its own ignition coil mounted on the valve cover. Replacing a coil is usually straightforward on the front bank, but the rear bank coils may require removing the upper intake manifold (the large plastic/aluminum “air passage” on top of the engine).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.5–1.0 hours (front bank) / 2–3 hours (all coils incl. rear bank)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; coils sit near hot parts.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable if removing the intake manifold or unplugging many connectors.
• ⚠️ Do not pull on wiring; press the connector lock tab first.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the intake ports if the manifold comes off.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 8mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3" socket extension
• 6" socket extension
• Universal swivel adapter
• Torque wrench (inch-pound, 20–200 in-lb range)
• Torque wrench (foot-pound, 10–80 ft-lb range)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• OBD2 scan tool
• Shop towels
• Masking tape and marker
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 6 if replacing all)
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
• Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1 (required if removing intake manifold)
• Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1 (recommended if throttle body is removed)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
• If you’re doing rear bank coils (or all 6): use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. Set it aside so it can’t spring back.
• If replacing only one coil: use your OBD2 scan tool to note the misfire cylinder (example: P0304 = cylinder 4) before unplugging anything.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover

• Grip the cover and pull upward to release the rubber grommets. Use a trim clip removal tool carefully if it’s stuck.
• Set the cover aside.

Step 2: Identify which coils you’re replacing

• The “front bank” is the side closest to you at the radiator; the “rear bank” is closest to the firewall.
• Use masking tape and marker to label any connectors you unplug (example: “Coil 2”).

Step 3: Replace a front bank coil (no intake manifold removal)

• Press the lock tab and unplug the coil connector by hand. If needed, gently help it with a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Remove the coil retaining bolt using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
• Twist the coil slightly, then pull it straight up to remove it.
• Apply a small smear of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot using a fingertip with nitrile gloves. (This helps prevent moisture/corrosion.)
• Push the new coil straight onto the spark plug until it seats.
• Install the coil bolt with a 10mm socket, then Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lb) using an inch-pound torque wrench.
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 4: If you must replace rear bank coils (upper intake manifold removal)

• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket if you haven’t already.
• Remove the air intake duct:
  • Loosen hose clamps using an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver (whichever your clamps use).
  • Unplug the MAF sensor connector (on the intake tube) by hand.
  • Lift the duct out.
• Unplug and unclip what’s attached to the upper intake manifold:
  • Unplug the throttle body connector by hand.
  • Disconnect vacuum/EVAP/PCV lines using needle-nose pliers as needed.
  • Take a quick photo before removing hoses.
• Remove the upper intake manifold fasteners using a 10mm socket, ratchet, and extensions.
• Lift the upper intake manifold off carefully. Use shop towels to immediately cover the intake ports so nothing falls in.
• Now replace the rear bank coils exactly like Step 3:
  • Unplug connector by hand.
  • Remove coil bolt with 10mm socket.
  • Remove coil, install new coil, and Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lb).

Step 5: Reinstall the upper intake manifold (rear bank path)

• Remove the old intake manifold gaskets and install the new gaskets.
• Set the manifold into place straight down (don’t pinch gaskets).
• Hand-start all manifold bolts, then tighten evenly using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lb) using a foot-pound torque wrench, working from the center outward.
• Reconnect all vacuum/EVAP/PCV lines by hand and with needle-nose pliers if clamps are used.
• Reconnect the throttle body connector and any sensors you unplugged.
• Reinstall the air intake duct and tighten clamps using an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and Torque to 15 Nm (11 ft-lb).

Step 6: Reinstall the engine cover

• Line up the cover grommets and press down firmly by hand until seated.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 2–3 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
• Use your OBD2 scan tool to clear any misfire codes and confirm they do not return.
• Check that no warning lights come on and that the intake duct is fully seated (no hissing/whistling).
• If it runs rough after intake removal: recheck every electrical connector and vacuum hose you touched.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250–$650 (parts + labor, depending on front vs rear bank access)

DIY Cost: $40–$420 (parts only, 1 coil vs all 6 + gaskets)

You Save: $200–$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5–3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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