How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2011 Nissan Altima (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil swap with tools list, parts, safety tips, and coil bolt torque spec (63 in-lbs) for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2011 Nissan Altima (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil swap with tools list, parts, safety tips, and coil bolt torque spec (63 in-lbs) for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
đź”§ Altima - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Altima uses one ignition coil per cylinder (4 total). Replacing a bad coil restores smooth running and helps prevent misfires that can damage the catalytic converter.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Turn the car fully OFF and remove the key/fob from the vehicle area so it cannot go into READY mode.
- Let the engine cool before working near the valve cover and exhaust side.
- Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable to prevent accidental starts and protect electronics.
- Do not touch or pull on wiring; always press the connector lock tab and pull on the connector body.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- Torque wrench (inch-pound)
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Pick tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- OBD2 scan tool
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 4 Replace as needed; many replace all.
- Dielectric grease (spark plug boot grease) - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and allow the engine to cool.
- Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal: use a 10mm socket and move the cable aside so it can’t spring back.
- If you’re chasing a misfire, note any stored codes with an OBD2 scan tool (example: P0301 = cylinder 1 misfire).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Remove the engine cover fasteners using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
- Lift the cover straight up and set it aside.
Step 2: Locate the ignition coils
- The coils sit on top of the valve cover, one per cylinder, each with an electrical connector.
- Use shop towels to wipe dirt away around each coil so debris doesn’t fall into the spark plug hole.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector off by hand.
- If it’s stuck, use a small flathead screwdriver gently on the lock tab (do not pry hard). Small moves; don’t crack the connector.
- If the rubber seal is holding it, a pick tool can help break the seal lightly at the edge.
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Remove the coil bolt using a 10mm socket, 6" extension (1/4" drive), and 1/4" drive ratchet.
- Set the bolt somewhere safe so it doesn’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Twist the coil slightly left-right, then pull straight up to remove it.
- If it won’t move, pull steadily while twisting (don’t use pliers on the coil body).
Step 6: Prep and install the new coil
- Put a small smear of dielectric grease inside the new coil boot (the rubber “tube” that seals to the spark plug). Dielectric grease is non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture intrusion and eases future removal.
- Push the new coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
Step 7: Reinstall and torque the coil bolt
- Start the bolt by hand a few turns to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten with a torque wrench (inch-pound): Torque to 7.2 Nm (63 in-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the coil connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks.
- Gently tug to confirm it’s locked.
Step 9: Repeat for the remaining coils
- Repeat Steps 3-8 for the other cylinders.
- Keep bolts and connectors matched to their locations.
Step 10: Reinstall the engine cover and reconnect the 12V battery
- Reinstall the engine cover using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
- Reconnect the 12V battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
âś… After Repair
- Start the car and confirm it idles smoothly (no shaking, no flashing check-engine light).
- Use an OBD2 scan tool to clear misfire codes and confirm they don’t return.
- Test drive 10-15 minutes and recheck for warning lights.
- If a misfire remains on the same cylinder after coil replacement, the next common check is the spark plug (not the coil).
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$700 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$480 (parts only)
You Save: $130-$220 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















