🔧 Explorer - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your Explorer uses one ignition coil per spark plug (6 total). Replacing a bad coil can fix misfires, rough running, and flashing check-engine lights. Front coils are easy to reach; rear coils usually require removing the upper intake manifold for access.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts.
• ⚠️ Keep dirt out of spark plug holes; blow debris away before removing a coil.
• ⚠️ If the check engine light is flashing, avoid driving until repaired (can damage the catalytic converter).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 8mm socket
• 7mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3" socket extension
• 6" socket extension
• Torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range Nm)
• Flat trim tool
• Small pick tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Compressed air blow gun
• Shop vacuum
• Dielectric grease
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 6 to replace all)
• Upper intake manifold gaskets - Qty: 1 set (recommended if intake is removed)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine fully cool.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and isolate it.
• Identify the banks: front bank is radiator side; rear bank is firewall side.
• Dielectric grease is silicone grease for boots.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

• Pull up evenly by hand; if it uses fasteners, remove them with the correct 8mm socket.

Step 2: Access the coil(s)

• Front bank (radiator side): You can usually access coils directly once the cover is off.
• Rear bank (firewall side): If your hands/tools can’t reach the coil bolts, continue to Step 3 to remove the upper intake manifold.

Step 3: Remove the air intake duct (needed if removing the upper intake manifold)

• Loosen the hose clamps with a 7mm socket.
• Disconnect any attached small hoses using needle-nose pliers.
• Lift the duct out and set it aside.

Step 4: Disconnect connectors and hoses from the upper intake manifold (rear bank access)

• Unplug the throttle body connector by releasing the lock tab using a small pick tool.
• Disconnect vacuum/PCV hoses using a flat trim tool to gently break them free.
• Disconnect EVAP/vacuum quick-connects by releasing the clip with a small pick tool.
• Take a photo before unplugging anything.

Step 5: Remove the upper intake manifold (rear bank access)

• Remove the upper intake manifold bolts using an 8mm socket with a 6" socket extension.
• Lift the manifold straight up and out. Do not force it; re-check for missed hoses/connectors.
• Cover the lower intake ports with clean shop towels to prevent anything falling in.
• Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) when reinstalling the upper intake manifold bolts.

Step 6: Unplug the ignition coil electrical connector

• Press the release tab and unplug the connector.
• If stuck, use a small pick tool gently on the lock tab (do not break it).

Step 7: Remove the ignition coil

• Remove the coil retaining bolt using an 8mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
• Before pulling the coil, blow around it using compressed air blow gun so dirt doesn’t fall into the spark plug well.
• Twist the coil slightly, then pull straight up to remove it.
• Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs) when reinstalling the coil bolt.

Step 8: Install the new coil

• Apply a thin smear of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot (a pea-sized amount).
• Push the coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
• Install the retaining bolt using an 8mm socket, then Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs) with a torque wrench.
• Reconnect the coil electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 9: Reinstall the upper intake manifold (if removed)

• Remove the shop towels from the intake ports.
• Install new upper intake manifold gaskets if replacing them.
• Set the manifold in place and hand-start all bolts.
• Tighten bolts evenly using an 8mm socket, then Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
• Reconnect all hoses and electrical connectors using needle-nose pliers as needed.

Step 10: Reinstall the air intake duct and engine cover

• Reinstall the intake duct and tighten clamps using a 7mm socket.
• Reinstall the engine cover (push into grommets or fasten with an 8mm socket if applicable).

Step 11: Reconnect the battery

• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and listen/feel for a smooth idle.
• Check that no hoses are hissing (vacuum leak) and that the intake duct is fully seated.
• If the check engine light stays on, the code may need to be cleared after the fix.
• Road test for 10–15 minutes and recheck for any loose clamps or connectors.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹6,000-₹18,000 (parts + labor, depending on 1 coil vs all 6)

DIY Cost: ₹2,500-₹12,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹3,500-₹6,000+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.