How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2011-2016 Ford F-150 (Engine: V8 5.0L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2011-2016 Ford F-150 (Engine: V8 5.0L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips
🔧 Ignition Coils - Replacement
On your F-150, the ignition coils sit on top of each spark plug and are held in with a small bolt. Replacing them is straightforward once the engine cover is off, and it’s a good time to inspect the plug wells for oil or moisture.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Ignition systems can deliver a strong electrical shock. Keep the key off and the engine cool.
- Let the engine cool completely before starting. Coils and valve covers can be hot.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing coils. This reduces the chance of accidental misfire or electrical damage.
- Do not pull on the coil wire harness. Use the connector release tab instead.
- If you find oil in a spark plug well, stop and inspect the valve cover gasket before installing new coils.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 1/4-inch ratchet
- 6-inch extension
- Torque wrench
- Trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Battery terminal wrench 10mm
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 8 if replacing all coils, or Qty: 1 for a single failed coil
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
- Replacement coil bolt - Qty: 8 if any are damaged or corroded
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully.
- Turn the ignition off and remove the key or fob from the vehicle.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using the 10mm battery terminal wrench.
- Label coils if you plan to reuse any.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Lift the engine cover straight up by hand or use the trim tool if it feels stuck.
- Set it aside where it will not get damaged.
Step 2: Disconnect the battery
- Use the 10mm battery terminal wrench to loosen the negative battery terminal.
- Move the cable aside so it cannot spring back and touch the post.
Step 3: Unplug the ignition coil
- At the first coil, press the connector tab and gently unplug the electrical connector by hand.
- If the connector is tight, use needle-nose pliers carefully on the release tab area, not on the wires.
- Work one coil at a time.
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use the 8mm socket, 1/4-inch ratchet, and 6-inch extension to remove the coil bolt.
- Keep the bolt and coil together if you are reusing them.
- Torque on installation: 10 Nm (89 in-lbs)
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Twist the coil gently side to side, then pull it straight up.
- If it sticks, rock it lightly. Do not pry hard against the valve cover.
- Inspect the coil boot and the spark plug well for oil, water, or damage.
Step 6: Install the new ignition coil
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease inside the coil boot.
- Push the new coil straight down onto the spark plug until it seats fully.
- Reinstall the coil bolt by hand first, then tighten with the 8mm socket.
- Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs)
Step 7: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks.
- Make sure the lock tab is fully seated.
Step 8: Repeat for the remaining coils
- Repeat Steps 3 through 7 for each ignition coil you are replacing.
- Keep the coil locations organized so nothing gets mixed up.
Step 9: Reinstall the engine cover and battery cable
- Press the engine cover back into place by hand.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable and tighten it with the 10mm battery terminal wrench.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Listen for a smooth idle and watch for the check engine light.
- If the engine runs rough, recheck the coil connectors and bolt seating.
- If a misfire code was present before repair, clear it with a scan tool and test drive the truck.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $360-$900 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$520 (parts only)
You Save: $200-$380 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















