How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2009 Nissan Altima (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil swap with required tools, parts list, safety checks, and 7 Nm (62 in-lbs) torque spec
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2009 Nissan Altima (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)
Step-by-step coil swap with required tools, parts list, safety checks, and 7 Nm (62 in-lbs) torque spec


đź”§ Altima - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Altima’s ignition coils sit on top of the spark plugs and create the high-voltage spark the engine needs to run smoothly. Replacing a weak or failed coil can fix misfires, rough running, and flashing check-engine lights.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before working near the exhaust/engine.
- ⚠️ Keep the key out of the car so the engine can’t be started accidentally.
- ⚠️ Don’t pull on wiring—only press the connector tab and pull the plug.
- ⚠️ If you see oil in the spark plug tube, stop—oil can ruin coils and points to a valve cover/tube seal leak.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is optional, but recommended if you’re nervous around electrical connectors.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- Torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range Nm)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Pick tool (small)
- Shop rags
- Dielectric grease
- OBD2 scan tool (recommended)
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1-4
- Ignition coil boot (if separate from coil) - Qty: 1-4
- Engine air intake hose clamp (optional, if damaged) - Qty: 0-1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool for at least 30 minutes.
- If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative battery terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
- Take a quick photo of connectors first.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Use a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the engine cover fasteners.
- Lift the cover straight up and set it aside.
Step 2: Locate the ignition coils
- The coils are lined up on top of the valve cover (top of the engine), one per cylinder (4 total).
- Each coil has an electrical connector and a single small hold-down bolt.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Press the connector locking tab and pull the connector off the coil.
- If it’s stuck, use a flathead screwdriver gently on the tab (don’t pry on the wires).
- A pick tool (small) can help lift the lock tab if it’s tight (a pick is a small pointed hand tool used to lift clips and seals).
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use a 10mm socket, 6" extension, and 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the bolt.
- Keep the bolt with that coil so nothing gets mixed up.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Twist the coil slightly left-right to break the seal, then pull it straight up.
- If it won’t budge, use a little more twisting—avoid using tools to pry on the valve cover.
Step 6: Inspect the coil boot and spark plug tube
- Look down the spark plug tube with a light and check for oil or coolant.
- Wipe any light dirt from the tube opening using shop rags.
- If there’s oil pooled in the tube, don’t install the new coil yet—oil will cause repeat misfires.
Step 7: Install the new coil
- Put a tiny dab of dielectric grease inside the coil boot lip (this helps moisture resistance and makes future removal easier).
- Push the new coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
Step 8: Reinstall and torque the hold-down bolt
- Start the bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 10mm socket to snug it down.
- Use a torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range Nm) and 10mm socket: Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).
Step 9: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks/locks.
- Give it a gentle tug to confirm it’s latched.
Step 10: Repeat for any other coils you’re replacing
- Repeat Steps 3-9 for the remaining cylinders as needed.
- One coil at a time prevents mix-ups.
Step 11: Reinstall the engine cover
- Set the cover back in place.
- Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the fasteners snugly (do not over-tighten).
âś… After Repair
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal (if disconnected) using a 10mm socket.
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should idle smoothly.
- If the check engine light was on, use an OBD2 scan tool to clear codes and confirm the misfire doesn’t return.
- Take a short test drive and recheck for any new warning lights or rough running.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $200-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $160-$330 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















