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2008 Nissan Altima
2007 - 2018 Nissan Altima
Inline 4 2.5L
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How to Replace Ignition Coils 07-12 Nissan Altima

How to Replace Ignition Coils 07-12 Nissan Altima

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Tools & Fluids

10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
6"
6"
Extension
1/4
1/4
Torque Wrench
Flathead
Flathead
Screwdriver
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How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2008 Nissan Altima (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)

Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools/parts list, safety tips, and 62 in-lb (7 Nm) torque spec for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2008 Nissan Altima (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle)

Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools/parts list, safety tips, and 62 in-lb (7 Nm) torque spec for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

Orion
Orion

🔧 Altima - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your Altima uses one ignition coil per cylinder (coil-on-plug). Replacing a bad coil restores a strong spark, which fixes misfires, rough idle, and loss of power.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental short circuits.
  • ⚠️ Pull on connectors by the plastic body, not the wires.
  • ⚠️ If you remove spark plugs, keep dirt out of the plug holes.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 6" socket extension
  • Torque wrench (inch-pound)
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Clean shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 4 if replacing all)
  • Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
  • Intake/engine cover grommets (if damaged) - Qty: 1 set (optional)

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and open the hood.
  • Let the engine cool fully.
  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and move it aside so it can’t spring back.
  • Take a quick photo before unplugging anything.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

  • Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the engine cover fasteners.
  • Lift the cover straight up and set it aside.

Step 2: Locate the ignition coils

  • The coils are lined up on top of the engine, one per cylinder, each with an electrical connector.
  • Wipe around each coil with clean shop towels so dirt won’t fall into the spark plug tube.

Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector

  • Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector off the coil.
  • If it’s stuck, use a small flathead screwdriver gently on the lock tab (do not pry hard).

Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt

  • Use a 10mm socket, 6" socket extension, and 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the bolt holding the coil.
  • Set the bolt aside where it won’t get lost.

Step 5: Remove the ignition coil

  • Twist the coil slightly left and right, then pull straight up to remove it.
  • If it’s tight, use steady force—don’t yank the wiring.

Step 6: Install the new ignition coil

  • Put a small dab of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot (this helps sealing and future removal).
  • Push the new coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.

Step 7: Reinstall and torque the coil bolt

  • Thread the bolt in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a torque wrench (inch-pound) with a 10mm socket to tighten the bolt.
  • Torque to 62 in-lb (7 Nm)

Step 8: Plug the connector back in

  • Push the connector on until it clicks.
  • Give it a gentle tug to confirm it’s locked.

Step 9: Repeat for other cylinders (if needed)

  • Repeat Steps 3–8 for any other coils you are replacing.
  • If one failed, others may be close behind.

Step 10: Reinstall the engine cover and reconnect the battery

  • Reinstall the engine cover using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
  • Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes.
  • Listen for smooth idle and verify the check engine light is off (or not flashing).
  • Take a short test drive and confirm there’s no hesitation under acceleration.
  • If the check engine light stays on, the code may need to be cleared after the repair.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$300 (parts only)

You Save: $135-$150 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.


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