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2007 Nissan Altima
2007 - 2018 Nissan Altima
Inline 4 2.5L
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How to Replace Ignition Coils 07-12 Nissan Altima

How to Replace Ignition Coils 07-12 Nissan Altima

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10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
6"
6"
Extension
1/4
1/4
Torque Wrench
Flathead
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How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2007 Nissan Altima (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)

Step-by-step coil swap with required tools/parts, safety tips, and coil bolt torque spec (77 in-lbs) for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2007 Nissan Altima (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle)

Step-by-step coil swap with required tools/parts, safety tips, and coil bolt torque spec (77 in-lbs) for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

Orion
Orion

đź”§ Altima - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your Altima uses one ignition coil per cylinder (4 total). Replacing a bad coil restores a strong spark so the engine runs smooth and stops misfiring.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Let the engine cool completely before starting.
  • 🛑 Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental shorts.
  • 🛑 Don’t pull on wires—only unplug connectors by the plastic body.
  • 🛑 Keep dirt out of the spark plug tubes (the deep holes under the coils).

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 6" socket extension
  • Torque wrench (inch-pound)
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Shop towels
  • Flashlight
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Ignition coil - Qty: 1-4
  • Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and open the hood.
  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.
  • If there’s dust/debris on the valve cover area, wipe it with shop towels first.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Make room to access the coils

  • Locate the ignition coils on top of the valve cover (4 identical units in a row).
  • If the air intake tube blocks your hands, loosen the hose clamps with a flat-blade screwdriver and move the tube slightly out of the way.
  • Take a quick photo of the layout.

Step 2: Unplug the coil electrical connector

  • At the first coil, press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight back.
  • If it’s stubborn, gently help the tab with a flat-blade screwdriver (don’t pry hard).
  • If the tab breaks, the connector may not stay tight.

Step 3: Remove the coil hold-down bolt

  • Use a 10mm socket, ratchet, and extension to remove the coil hold-down bolt.
  • Set the bolt somewhere safe (a magnetic tray is handy if you have one).

Step 4: Pull the coil out

  • Twist the coil gently left-right to break the seal, then pull straight up to remove it.
  • Look down the spark plug tube with a flashlight. It should be dry and clean.
  • If you see oil in the tube, stop and don’t install the new coil yet—oil usually means a valve cover/tube seal leak that can ruin coils.

Step 5: Install the new coil

  • Put a very small amount of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot of the new coil. (Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture/corrosion.)
  • Slide the coil straight down into the tube until it fully seats on the spark plug.

Step 6: Reinstall the bolt and torque it

  • Start the bolt by hand first (prevents cross-threading), then snug it with a 10mm socket.
  • Use an inch-pound torque wrench and Torque to 8.7 Nm (77 in-lbs).

Step 7: Plug the connector back in

  • Push the electrical connector on until it clicks/locks.
  • Gently tug it to confirm it’s latched.

Step 8: Repeat for the remaining coils

  • Repeat Steps 2-7 for each coil you’re replacing.
  • If you’re replacing all coils, do them one at a time so nothing gets mixed up.

Step 9: Reassemble and reconnect battery

  • Reposition the intake tube and tighten clamps with a flat-blade screwdriver (snug, not stripped).
  • Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.

âś… After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
  • If the Check Engine Light was on, it may take a few drive cycles to turn off, or you can clear codes with a scan tool.
  • Test drive 10-15 minutes and recheck that all connectors are fully seated.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $80-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $170-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.


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