How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2007-2017 Toyota Camry (Step-by-Step Guide) (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Tools, parts, safety tips, and ignition coil bolt torque specs (9 Nm / 80 in-lbf)
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2007-2017 Toyota Camry (Step-by-Step Guide) (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Tools, parts, safety tips, and ignition coil bolt torque specs (9 Nm / 80 in-lbf) for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
đź”§ Camry - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Camry’s ignition coils sit on top of the spark plugs and create the high-voltage spark needed for the engine to run smoothly. Replacing a bad coil is a straightforward job: remove the engine cover, unplug the coil, unbolt it, and swap it out.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns and damaged plastic connectors.
- ⚠️ Keep the ignition OFF while unplugging coils to prevent electrical damage.
- ⚠️ Don’t pull on wiring—only the connector body.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required, but if you’re nervous around electrical connectors, disconnect the negative terminal first.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3" extension (1/4" drive)
- Torque wrench (in-lb or low-range ft-lb)
- 10mm wrench
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Shop light
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 4 if replacing all)
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 (optional)
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
- If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm wrench to remove the negative terminal and keep it from touching the post.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the engine cover nuts (if equipped).
- Lift the cover up to release it from the rubber grommets, then set it aside.
Step 2: Locate the ignition coils
- Use a shop light to look along the top of the engine valve cover.
- You’ll see 4 coils in a row, each with an electrical connector and a single 10mm hold-down bolt.
Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- Press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight back by hand.
- If it’s stuck, use a small flathead screwdriver gently on the lock tab only (do not pry on the wires). Be gentle—plastic gets brittle.
Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use a 10mm socket with a 3" extension (1/4" drive) and 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the bolt.
- Set the bolt somewhere safe so it can’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 5: Remove the ignition coil
- Grab the coil body and twist it slightly left-right to break the seal.
- Pull the coil straight up to remove it from the spark plug tube.
Step 6: Install the new ignition coil
- If using dielectric grease: put a pea-sized amount inside the rubber boot of the new coil (dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps seal out moisture).
- Push the new coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
Step 7: Reinstall the coil bolt and torque it
- Start the bolt by hand a few turns to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench (in-lb or low-range ft-lb) with a 10mm socket to tighten the bolt: Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbf).
- (A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to a specific safe tightness.)
Step 8: Reconnect the electrical connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks/locks.
- Lightly tug the connector to confirm it’s fully latched.
Step 9: Repeat for other coils (if replacing more than one)
- Repeat Steps 3–8 for each additional coil.
- One coil at a time prevents mix-ups.
Step 10: Reinstall the engine cover
- Set the cover back in place and press it into the grommets.
- Use a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet to reinstall the nuts snugly (do not over-tighten).
Step 11: Reconnect the battery (if disconnected)
- Use a 10mm wrench to tighten the negative terminal clamp.
âś… After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds. It should run smooth with no shaking.
- If the check engine light was on, it may need to be cleared after the repair (or it may turn off on its own after a few drive cycles).
- Take a short test drive and re-check for any rough running.
- If it still misfires, the spark plug or wiring to that coil may be the issue.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $200-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$400 (parts only, depending on replacing 1 coil vs all 4)
You Save: $160-$150 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Ignition Coil replace for these Toyota vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2017 Toyota Camry | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2017 Toyota Camry | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2016 Toyota Camry | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2016 Toyota Camry | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2015 Toyota Camry | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2015 Toyota Camry | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2014 Toyota Camry | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2014 Toyota Camry | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2013 Toyota Camry | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2013 Toyota Camry | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2012 Toyota Camry | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2012 Toyota Camry | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2011 Toyota Camry | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2011 Toyota Camry | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2010 Toyota Camry | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2010 Toyota Camry | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2009 Toyota Camry | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2008 Toyota Camry | - | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2007 Toyota Camry | - | V6 3.5L | - |


















