How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2007-2017 Mitsubishi Lancer (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle) (Trim: GT | Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)
Step-by-step coil pack replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 9 Nm torque spec
How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2007-2017 Mitsubishi Lancer (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle) (Trim: GT | Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)
Step-by-step coil pack replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 9 Nm torque spec for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Lancer - Ignition Coil Replacement
Your Lancer’s ignition coils sit on top of the spark plugs and create the high voltage needed to fire each cylinder. Replacing a weak coil can fix misfires, rough idle, and loss of power. This is a straightforward under-hood job with basic hand tools.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours
Assumption: 2.4L 4B12 engine coil hold-down torque ~9 Nm.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental short circuits.
- ⚠️ Pull on the coil body, not the wiring, to avoid harness damage.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the spark plug tubes; debris can cause misfires.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4")
- Torque wrench (2-25 Nm range)
- Flat trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Flashlight
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Ignition coil - Qty: 1
- Ignition coil set (replace all four) - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
- Intake/engine cover grommets or clips - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully.
- Open the hood and disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Lay out coils in order (cylinders 1-4) so nothing gets mixed up.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Use a flat trim tool to gently pop up any cover fasteners (if present).
- Lift the cover straight up and off. Use a flashlight to confirm the ignition coils are visible on top of the valve cover.
Step 2: Unplug the coil electrical connector
- At the first coil, press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight back.
- If the tab is stubborn, use needle-nose pliers carefully (do not crush the connector).
- Wiggle the connector, don’t yank.
Step 3: Remove the coil hold-down bolt
- Use a 10mm socket, 6" extension (1/4"), and 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the single bolt holding the coil down.
- Set the bolt aside where it can’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 4: Remove the ignition coil
- Grip the coil body and twist slightly left-right to break the boot seal.
- Pull the coil straight up out of the spark plug tube.
- Use a flashlight to look down the tube—remove any loose dirt with a clean rag (do not drop anything inside).
Step 5: Prep and install the new coil
- Put a small dab of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot of the new coil.
- Push the new coil straight down until you feel it seat on the spark plug.
- Reinstall the hold-down bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten using a torque wrench (2-25 Nm range): Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
Step 6: Reconnect the coil connector
- Push the connector on until it clicks and locks.
- Gently tug it to confirm it’s secure.
Step 7: Repeat for remaining coils
- Repeat Steps 2-6 for the other coils.
- If you’re chasing a misfire on one cylinder, it’s still smart to inspect the others for oil in the plug tubes or cracked boots.
Step 8: Reinstall the engine cover and reconnect the battery
- Reinstall the engine cover and press it into place.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no flashing check engine light.
- If the check engine light was on, use a scan tool to clear codes and confirm no misfire codes return.
- Take a 10-minute test drive with light and moderate throttle.
- Recheck that all coil connectors are fully clicked in if you feel any stumble.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$400 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$250+ by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















