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2016 Mitsubishi Lancer
2007 - 2017 Mitsubishi Lancer
ES Inline 4 2.0L
Compatible with more variants.
2008 - 2013 Mitsubishi Lancer
DE Inline 4 2.0L
2008 Mitsubishi Lancer
GTS Inline 4 2.0L
2009 - 2011 Mitsubishi Lancer
GTS Inline 4 2.4L
2010 - 2011 Mitsubishi Lancer
GTS Sportback Inline 4 2.4L
2011 - 2014 Mitsubishi Lancer
ES Sportback Inline 4 2.0L
2012 - 2016 Mitsubishi Lancer
GT Inline 4 2.4L
2012 - 2014 Mitsubishi Lancer
GT Sportback Inline 4 2.4L
2012 - 2017 Mitsubishi Lancer
SE Inline 4 2.4L
2016 - 2017 Mitsubishi Lancer
ES Inline 4 2.4L
2016 - 2017 Mitsubishi Lancer
SEL Inline 4 2.4L
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  • Guides
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  • Mitsubishi Lancer
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  • 2016
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  • How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2007-2017 Mitsubishi Lancer (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle) (Trim: GT | Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)
How to Replace Ignition Coils 2008-2017 Mitsubishi Lancer 2.4L L4

How to Replace Ignition Coils 2008-2017 Mitsubishi Lancer 2.4L L4

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10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
6"
6"
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1/4
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How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2007-2017 Mitsubishi Lancer (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle) (Trim: GT | Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)

Step-by-step coil pack replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 9 Nm torque spec

How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 2007-2017 Mitsubishi Lancer (Fix Misfires & Rough Idle) (Trim: GT | Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)

Step-by-step coil pack replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 9 Nm torque spec for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

Orion
Orion

🔧 Lancer - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your Lancer’s ignition coils sit on top of the spark plugs and create the high voltage needed to fire each cylinder. Replacing a weak coil can fix misfires, rough idle, and loss of power. This is a straightforward under-hood job with basic hand tools.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours

Assumption: 2.4L 4B12 engine coil hold-down torque ~9 Nm.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental short circuits.
  • ⚠️ Pull on the coil body, not the wiring, to avoid harness damage.
  • ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the spark plug tubes; debris can cause misfires.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 6" extension (1/4")
  • Torque wrench (2-25 Nm range)
  • Flat trim tool
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Flashlight
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Ignition coil - Qty: 1
  • Ignition coil set (replace all four) - Qty: 1
  • Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
  • Intake/engine cover grommets or clips - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Let the engine cool fully.
  • Open the hood and disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
  • Lay out coils in order (cylinders 1-4) so nothing gets mixed up.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

  • Use a flat trim tool to gently pop up any cover fasteners (if present).
  • Lift the cover straight up and off. Use a flashlight to confirm the ignition coils are visible on top of the valve cover.

Step 2: Unplug the coil electrical connector

  • At the first coil, press the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight back.
  • If the tab is stubborn, use needle-nose pliers carefully (do not crush the connector).
  • Wiggle the connector, don’t yank.

Step 3: Remove the coil hold-down bolt

  • Use a 10mm socket, 6" extension (1/4"), and 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the single bolt holding the coil down.
  • Set the bolt aside where it can’t fall into the engine bay.

Step 4: Remove the ignition coil

  • Grip the coil body and twist slightly left-right to break the boot seal.
  • Pull the coil straight up out of the spark plug tube.
  • Use a flashlight to look down the tube—remove any loose dirt with a clean rag (do not drop anything inside).

Step 5: Prep and install the new coil

  • Put a small dab of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot of the new coil.
  • Push the new coil straight down until you feel it seat on the spark plug.
  • Reinstall the hold-down bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Tighten using a torque wrench (2-25 Nm range): Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).

Step 6: Reconnect the coil connector

  • Push the connector on until it clicks and locks.
  • Gently tug it to confirm it’s secure.

Step 7: Repeat for remaining coils

  • Repeat Steps 2-6 for the other coils.
  • If you’re chasing a misfire on one cylinder, it’s still smart to inspect the others for oil in the plug tubes or cracked boots.

Step 8: Reinstall the engine cover and reconnect the battery

  • Reinstall the engine cover and press it into place.
  • Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes. It should run smooth with no flashing check engine light.
  • If the check engine light was on, use a scan tool to clear codes and confirm no misfire codes return.
  • Take a 10-minute test drive with light and moderate throttle.
  • Recheck that all coil connectors are fully clicked in if you feel any stumble.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$400 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$250+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.


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