🔧 SRX - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your SRX uses coil-on-plug ignition coils (one coil per cylinder). Replacing a bad coil fixes misfires, rough idle, and flashing check-engine lights by restoring strong spark to the spark plug.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.5 hours (rear bank is tighter)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers/tools away from the radiator fans; they can turn on unexpectedly.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable if you’ll be unplugging multiple connectors (recommended).
• ⚠️ Don’t pull on wiring; always release the connector lock first.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Socket set with ratchet (1/4")
• 10mm socket
• 8mm socket
• 6" socket extension (1/4")
• Universal joint swivel (1/4")
• Torque wrench (in-lb)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Trim/panel removal tool
• Small pick tool
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1-6 (replace only failed coil, or all six)
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
• Ignition coil boot (if separate from coil) - Qty: 1-6

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
• If disconnecting the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• Tip: Take a quick photo of each connector first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption: Stock intake/engine cover; rear-bank coils are accessible with extensions and a swivel.

Step 1: Remove the engine cover

• Grab the plastic engine cover and pull upward firmly to release it from the rubber grommets.
• If a corner feels stuck, use a trim/panel removal tool to gently pry up.

Step 2: Remove the air intake duct (to improve access)

• Use an 8mm socket (or flathead screwdriver, depending on clamp style) to loosen the hose clamps on the intake duct.
• Unclip/unplug any small resonator tube or sensor connector using the small pick tool to lift the lock tab (a lock tab is the small plastic catch that prevents accidental unplugging).
• Lift the duct out and set it aside.

Step 3: Pick the coil you’re replacing and unplug it

• Find the coil on top of the valve cover (a small rectangular module going straight into the engine).
• Use the small pick tool to gently lift the connector lock (if equipped), then press the release tab and pull the connector straight off.
• Tip: Wiggle the connector—don’t yank the wires.

Step 4: Remove the coil retaining bolt

• Use a 10mm socket with a 6" extension to remove the coil bolt.
• For the rear bank (near the firewall), use the universal joint swivel (1/4") if the ratchet angle is tight.

Step 5: Remove the coil from the spark plug

• Twist the coil slightly left/right to break the boot seal, then pull straight up.
• If it’s stubborn, pull upward while gently twisting—don’t pry hard on the plastic.

Step 6: Prep and install the new coil

• Put a pea-sized amount of dielectric grease inside the rubber boot (dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier).
• Push the coil straight down onto the spark plug until you feel it seat.

Step 7: Reinstall the coil bolt and torque it

• Start the bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench (in-lb) and 10mm socket: Torque to 89 in-lb (10 N·m).

Step 8: Reconnect the coil electrical connector

• Push the connector on until it clicks.
• Re-engage the connector lock (if equipped).

Step 9: Repeat for any other coils being replaced

• Replace coils one at a time so connectors don’t get mixed up.
• Tip: If you’re chasing a misfire, keep parts organized.

Step 10: Reinstall the intake duct and engine cover

• Reinstall the intake duct and tighten clamps using an 8mm socket (or flathead screwdriver).
• Reconnect any tube/connector you removed.
• Press the engine cover back onto its mounting grommets until fully seated.

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the battery negative terminal (if disconnected) using a 10mm socket.
• Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes; it should be smooth with no shaking.
• If the check-engine light was on, use a scan tool to clear codes and confirm the misfire does not return.
• Test drive 10-15 minutes and recheck for warning lights.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$700 (parts + labor, depending on how many coils)

DIY Cost: $40-$420 (parts only, depending on how many coils)

You Save: $150-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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