🔧 Durango - Ignition Coil Replacement

The ignition coils sit on top of the spark plugs and create the high voltage needed to fire the plugs. Replacing a bad coil can fix misfires, rough idle, blinking check-engine light, and loss of power.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before working near the exhaust manifolds.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts.
• ⚠️ Don’t pull on wiring—only pull on connectors.
• ⚠️ If the check engine light was blinking, avoid driving until the misfire is fixed (it can damage the catalytic converters).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 6" extension (1/4" drive)
• Torque wrench (inch-pound)
• Small flathead screwdriver
• Trim/clip removal tool
• Shop light
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Ignition coil - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 8 if replacing all)
• Ignition coil boot - Qty: 1 (or Qty: 8 if replacing all)
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm wrench and move it aside so it can’t spring back.
• Tip: Replace coils one at a time to avoid mix-ups.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

• Grasp the cover and pull upward to release it from the rubber grommets (no tools in many cases).
• If any fasteners/clips are present, remove them using a trim/clip removal tool.

Step 2: Locate the coil you’re replacing

• Use a shop light to see along the valve covers.
• The ignition coil is the small rectangular module bolted on top of the spark plug hole.

Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector

• Use a small flathead screwdriver to gently lift the red lock tab (if equipped) on the connector.
• Press the release tab and pull the connector straight off.
• Tip: Wiggle the connector—don’t yank the wires.

Step 4: Remove the coil retaining bolt

• Remove the coil bolt using a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and 6" extension.
• Set the bolt aside where it won’t fall into the engine bay.

Step 5: Remove the ignition coil

• Twist the coil slightly by hand to break the seal, then pull it straight upward.
• If it feels stuck, keep twisting gently—don’t pry hard against plastic parts.
• Pull the rubber boot off the spark plug tube if it stayed behind.

Step 6: Inspect the coil boot and spark plug well

• Look for oil inside the spark plug well (the deep hole). Oil can cause repeat misfires.
• If you see oil, stop and address the leak before installing new parts (usually a valve cover gasket issue).
• Check the boot for swelling, cracking, or carbon tracking (thin black lightning-like lines).

Step 7: Install the new coil (and boot if replacing)

• Apply a small dab of dielectric grease inside the new boot (a tiny smear is enough).
• Push the coil straight down until you feel it seat firmly on the spark plug.

Step 8: Reinstall and torque the coil bolt

• Start the bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten using a 10mm socket and ratchet, then finish with a torque wrench (inch-pound).
• Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lb)

Step 9: Reconnect the coil connector

• Push the connector on until it clicks.
• Lock the red tab back in place (if equipped) using a small flathead screwdriver.

Step 10: Reassemble and reconnect the battery

• Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it back into the grommets.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm wrench.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes. It should be smooth with no shaking.
• Take a short test drive and confirm no hesitation under light acceleration.
• If you have a scan tool, clear stored misfire codes and recheck for pending codes.
• If the misfire remains, the next most common causes are the spark plug, injector, or a vacuum/air leak.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$650 (parts + labor) for 1-2 coils; $700-$1,600 for all 8

DIY Cost: $40-$120 per coil (parts only); $300-$900 for all 8

You Save: $150-$700+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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