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2007 Ford Explorer
1991 - 2010 Ford Explorer
V6 4.0L
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  • Guides
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  • Ford Explorer
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  • 1991 to 2010
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  • How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 1991-2010 Ford Explorer (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle) (Engine: V6 4.0L)
How To Replace Ignition Coil Pack 2006-2010 Ford Explorer

How To Replace Ignition Coil Pack 2006-2010 Ford Explorer

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Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
10mm
10mm
Wrench
or (3/8")
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
1.5"
1.5"
Extension
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How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 1991-2010 Ford Explorer (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle) (Engine: V6 4.0L)

Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 62 in-lb (7 Nm) torque spec

How to Replace Ignition Coils on a 1991-2010 Ford Explorer (Fix Misfire & Rough Idle) (Engine: V6 4.0L)

Step-by-step coil-on-plug replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 62 in-lb (7 Nm) torque spec for 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010

Orion
Orion

🔧 Explorer - Ignition Coil Replacement

Your Explorer uses coil-on-plug ignition coils (one coil per cylinder) to create the spark that runs the engine. Replacing a bad coil can fix misfires, rough idle, flashing check-engine light, and loss of power.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; coils sit near hot parts.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts.
  • ⚠️ Don’t pull on wiring; use the connector tab to unplug.
  • ⚠️ If the check-engine light is flashing, avoid driving until repaired (can damage the catalytic converter).

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • 10mm wrench
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 1/4" drive extension set
  • 7mm socket
  • 8mm socket
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Torque wrench (inch-pound)
  • Flashlight

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Ignition coil(s) - Qty: 1-6
  • Ignition coil boot(s) (if separate) - Qty: 1-6
  • Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground and let the engine cool fully.
  • Open the hood and keep a flashlight handy (rear coils can be tight to see).
  • Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable and move it aside.
  • Tip: Replace one coil at a time. This prevents mixing up connectors.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

  • Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the engine cover bolts (if your cover uses them).
  • Lift the cover off and set it aside.

Step 2: Choose the coil you’re replacing

  • Each coil sits directly on top of a spark plug.
  • Use a flashlight to clearly see the coil, its electrical connector, and the small hold-down bolt.

Step 3: Unplug the coil electrical connector

  • If there’s a connector lock, gently release it with a small flathead screwdriver.
  • Press the connector tab and pull the connector straight back by hand.

Step 4: Remove the coil hold-down bolt

  • Use a 7mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and a 1/4" drive extension to remove the coil bolt.
  • Put the bolt somewhere safe so it doesn’t fall into the engine bay.

Step 5: Remove the ignition coil

  • Twist the coil slightly left-right by hand to break the seal.
  • Pull the coil straight up and out.
  • Tip: Don’t pry on plastic parts.

Step 6: Prep the new coil (and boot)

  • If your new coil uses a separate boot, install the ignition coil boot onto the coil.
  • Apply a small smear of dielectric grease inside the end of the boot (this helps prevent moisture and makes future removal easier).
  • Wipe any oil or debris off the spark plug well before installing the new coil.

Step 7: Install the new coil

  • Push the coil straight down until it fully seats on the spark plug.
  • Reinstall the hold-down bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a torque wrench (inch-pound) to tighten the bolt: Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect the coil connector

  • Push the connector in until it clicks/locks.
  • Gently tug it to confirm it’s fully seated.

Step 9: Reinstall the engine cover

  • Set the cover back in place.
  • Use an 8mm socket to reinstall and snug the cover bolts (do not over-tighten).

Step 10: Reconnect the battery

  • Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the negative battery cable.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes; it should run smooth with no shaking.
  • Take a short test drive and confirm no hesitation under acceleration.
  • If the check-engine light stays on, the code may need to be cleared (a parts-store scan tool can do this).
  • If you see oil in the spark plug well, the valve cover gasket may be leaking (common cause of repeat coil failures).

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$900 (parts + labor, depends on how many coils)

DIY Cost: $40-$420 (parts only, depends on how many coils)

You Save: $210-$480+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.5 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Guide for Ignition Coil replace for these Ford vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2010 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
2009 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
2008 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
2007 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
2006 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
2005 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
2004 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
2003 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
2002 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
2001 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
2000 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
1999 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
1998 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
1997 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
1996 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
1995 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
1994 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
1993 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
1992 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
1991 Ford Explorer-V6 4.0L-
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