🔧 Tacoma - Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

This procedure covers replacing the front wheel bearing/hub assembly on your Tacoma. On the 4WD Tacoma, the front wheel bearing is serviced as a hub/bearing assembly, which is safer and easier for a beginner than pressing the bearing out separately.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours per side

Assumption: You mean the front wheel bearings; rear axle bearing replacement requires a press and is more advanced.

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and use jack stands. Never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ The front axle nut is very tight. Loosen it while the tire is still on the ground.
• ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hang by the brake hose. Support it with wire or a bungee cord.
• ⚠️ Avoid pulling on the ABS wheel speed sensor wire. It is fragile and can trigger warning lights if damaged.
• ⚠️ If replacing both front bearings, do one side at a time so you can compare the other side if needed.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 21mm socket
• 35mm axle nut socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• 1/2-inch torque wrench rated to 250 ft-lbs
• 3/8-inch torque wrench rated to 80 ft-lbs
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Ball peen hammer
• Dead blow hammer
• Hub puller kit (specialty)
• Slide hammer hub puller (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Bungee cord
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front wheel bearing and hub assembly - Qty: 1 per side
• Front axle nut - Qty: 1 per side
• Front hub dust cap - Qty: 1 per side
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Tacoma on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔩 A breaker bar is a long handle used to loosen very tight bolts without using impact tools.
• 🔧 A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct tightness so parts are secure but not over-tightened.
• 🧰 A slide hammer hub puller is a specialty tool that pulls a stuck hub out using repeated outward force.
• 📌 Loosen the front axle nut and lug nuts before lifting the truck.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Wheel and Axle Nut

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts one turn while the tire is still on the ground.
• Use a flathead screwdriver to carefully pry off the front hub dust cap.
• Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin from the axle nut lock.
• Remove the axle nut lock using your fingers or needle-nose pliers.
• Use a 35mm axle nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the axle nut.
• Loosen only; remove it later.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Tacoma

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Tacoma at the front crossmember.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front frame support points.
• Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands using the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
• Use your hands to shake the truck lightly and confirm it is stable before working underneath or near the wheel area.

Step 3: Remove the Wheel

• Use the 21mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and set it flat under the frame area as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the Brake Caliper

• Use a 17mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the front brake caliper mounting bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the rotor.
• Use a bungee cord to hang the caliper from the suspension spring or upper control arm.
• Do not stretch, twist, or kink the brake hose.
• During installation, tighten the front brake caliper mounting bolts to Torque to 123 Nm (91 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the Brake Rotor

• Slide the brake rotor straight off by hand.
• If it is stuck, use a dead blow hammer to tap around the rotor hat area until it loosens.
• Do not hit the braking surface hard with a metal hammer.
• Rust often holds the rotor in place.

Step 6: Move the ABS Sensor Wire Safely

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the ABS wire bracket bolts from the steering knuckle area if they limit movement.
• Move the wire gently out of the way.
• Do not pry on the sensor body unless it must be removed.
• If the sensor must be removed, use a 10mm socket and gently twist it free by hand.

Step 7: Remove the Axle Nut

• Use a 35mm axle nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the axle nut completely.
• Push the CV axle inward by hand to make sure it slides freely through the hub splines.
• If stuck, thread the old axle nut on a few turns and tap it lightly with a ball peen hammer.
• CV axle splines are the small ridges that let the axle drive the hub.

Step 8: Remove the Hub/Bearing Assembly Bolts

• From the back side of the steering knuckle, use a 17mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the hub/bearing mounting bolts.
• If space is tight, turn the steering wheel slightly by hand to improve access.
• Keep the bolts organized so they go back into the same locations.
• During installation, tighten the hub/bearing mounting bolts to Torque to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Remove the Old Hub/Bearing Assembly

• Attach the hub puller kit (specialty) to the wheel studs using the lug nuts.
• Use the slide hammer hub puller (specialty) to pull the hub/bearing assembly outward from the steering knuckle.
• If the hub is rusted in place, tap around the hub flange with a dead blow hammer while pulling.
• Do not hammer directly on the ABS sensor or steering knuckle ears.

Step 10: Clean the Mounting Surface

• Use a wire brush to clean rust and dirt from the steering knuckle bore and mounting face.
• Use brake cleaner spray to wash the area clean.
• Wipe the area with a clean shop towel.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound by hand to the knuckle bore only.
• Too much anti-seize attracts dirt.

Step 11: Install the New Hub/Bearing Assembly

• Slide the new front wheel bearing and hub assembly over the CV axle and into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Start all hub mounting bolts by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
• Use a 17mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench rated to 80 ft-lbs to tighten the hub/bearing mounting bolts to Torque to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs).
• Make sure the hub sits flat against the steering knuckle.

Step 12: Reinstall the Axle Nut

• Install the new front axle nut by hand.
• Use a 35mm axle nut socket and snug it with the 1/2-inch breaker bar.
• Final torque will be done after the wheel is installed and the truck is on the ground.

Step 13: Reinstall ABS Wire Brackets

• Route the ABS wire exactly as it was before removal.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to reinstall the ABS wire bracket bolts.
• Make sure the wire cannot rub the tire, brake rotor, or CV axle.

Step 14: Reinstall the Brake Rotor and Caliper

• Slide the brake rotor onto the new hub by hand.
• Place the brake caliper back over the rotor.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench rated to 250 ft-lbs to tighten the front brake caliper mounting bolts to Torque to 123 Nm (91 ft-lbs).
• Check that the brake hose is not twisted.

Step 15: Reinstall the Wheel

• Install the wheel by hand.
• Start all lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 21mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 16: Lower and Final Torque

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the truck slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Tacoma until the tire touches the ground firmly.
• Use a 35mm axle nut socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench rated to 250 ft-lbs to tighten the axle nut to Torque to 235 Nm (173 ft-lbs).
• Install the axle nut lock and a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.
• Install the new hub dust cap by tapping it evenly with a dead blow hammer.
• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench rated to 250 ft-lbs to tighten the wheel lug nuts to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Pump the brake pedal several times before driving. The pedal should feel firm.
• ✅ Start with a slow test drive under 25 mph and listen for grinding, humming, or clicking.
• ✅ Check that the ABS warning light stays off.
• ✅ After 25-50 miles, recheck the wheel lug nut torque to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
• ✅ If there is still a humming noise, check the opposite front bearing and tire tread wear.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 per front side (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$300 per front side (parts only)

You Save: $330-$550 per side by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours per side.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.