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2017 GMC Sierra 1500
2017 GMC Sierra 1500
SLT - V8 5.3L
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How to Replace Front Lower Control Arms 2014-2018 GMC Sierra 1500

How to Replace Front Lower Control Arms 2014-2018 GMC Sierra 1500

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
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How to Replace Front Upper or Lower Control Arms on a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500

Step-by-step suspension guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and GM torque specs

How to Replace Front Upper or Lower Control Arms on a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500

Step-by-step suspension guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and GM torque specs

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đź”§ Sierra 1500 - Control Arm Replacement

On your Sierra 1500, the front suspension uses an upper and a lower control arm on each side. The replacement steps and (most importantly) the correct GM torque specs change depending on which arm you’re doing and which suspension package you have.

Before I give you the exact step-by-step with correct torque specs: are you replacing the upper control arm or the lower control arm—and is it the driver side, passenger side, or both?

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours (per side, varies by upper vs lower)


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Support the truck with jack stands under the frame; never rely on a floor jack.
  • 🛑 Keep hands clear of the steering knuckle when separating the ball joint (it can “pop” free suddenly).
  • 🛑 If you loosen torsion/coil spring-loaded components, do it exactly as instructed—stored spring force can injure you.
  • 🛑 Wear eye protection when using a hammer/pickle fork; rust and debris can fly.
  • 🛑 No battery disconnect is normally required for this job.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 1/2" (30–250 ft-lbs range)
  • Socket set 1/2" drive (10mm–24mm)
  • Wrench set (10mm–24mm)
  • Pry bar
  • Ball joint separator (pickle fork) (specialty)
  • Ball joint press kit (specialty)
  • Hammer (2–3 lb)
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Wire brush
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front upper control arm (with ball joint) - Qty: 1 (or 2 if doing both sides)
  • Front lower control arm (with bushings) - Qty: 1 (or 2 if doing both sides)
  • Upper ball joint nut / cotter pin kit - Qty: 1 (per side)
  • Lower ball joint nut / cotter pin kit - Qty: 1 (per side)
  • Control arm cam bolts and alignment cam kit - Qty: 1 kit (per side, if seized/damaged)
  • Chassis grease - Qty: 1 (only if your new joint has a grease fitting)

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to P, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Break the front lug nuts loose with a 22mm socket before lifting.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the control arm bolts and ball joint nut area and let it soak 10–15 minutes.
  • Plan on getting a front end alignment after—control arm removal changes alignment.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which control arm you’re replacing

  • Reply with: upper or lower, and driver / passenger / both.
  • Also tell me if your Sierra has factory Z71 or any aftermarket lift/leveling kit (this affects exact procedure and torque specs).

Step 2: Get the truck safely in the air (prep step)

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the frame jacking point.
  • Set it down on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame rails.
  • Remove the wheel using a 22mm socket.

Step 3: I’ll provide the exact removal/install steps + GM torque specs after your reply

  • Upper vs lower arm hardware and torque specs differ, and I don’t want you guessing on safety-critical fasteners.
  • Once you confirm the arm and side, I’ll give you the full numbered procedure including: ball joint separation method, cam bolt handling, final tightening at ride height, and Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) for every fastener.

âś… After Repair

  • Recheck that all fasteners are tightened to spec and that any cotter pins are installed (if equipped).
  • Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks and verify steering feels normal.
  • Get a professional alignment immediately after control arm replacement.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,600 (parts + labor, per side; upper usually less than lower)

DIY Cost: $120-$600 (parts only, per side)

You Save: $300-$1,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.


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