🔧 Altima - Front Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement

The main suspension bushings commonly replaced on your Altima are built into the front lower control arms. For a beginner DIYer, the safest and most reliable method is replacing the complete lower control arm assemblies instead of pressing bushings in and out.

This repair restores tight steering feel, reduces clunks, and helps correct alignment issues caused by worn rubber bushings.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands under proper support points before going under the car.
• ⚠️ The suspension is heavy. Keep hands clear when separating the ball joint and moving the control arm.
• ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the ball joint stud or threads.
• ⚠️ Final tightening of control arm pivot bolts should be done with the suspension at normal ride height to avoid twisting the new bushings.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after this repair.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 21mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 21mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 18mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Pry bar
• Rubber mallet
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Anti-seize compound

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly - Driver side - Qty: 1
• Front lower control arm assembly - Passenger side - Qty: 1
• Lower ball joint castle nut or locking nut - Qty: 2
• Cotter pins - Qty: 2
• Control arm mounting bolts and nuts - Replace if rusted or damaged - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Altima on level ground and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🛞 Slightly loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
• 🔎 Spray penetrating oil on the lower control arm bolts and ball joint nut. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
• 🧰 A ball joint separator is a tool that safely separates the steering knuckle from the ball joint without damaging the threads.
• 📏 If replacing both sides, do one side at a time so the other side can be used as a reference.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front wheel lug nut about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Break lug nuts loose before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Altima at the front center lift point.
• Place jack stands under the front side support points.
• Gently lower the car onto the jack stands.
• Lightly shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before working underneath.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use a 21mm socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and set them flat under the rocker area as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark the Control Arm Bolt Positions

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the front and rear lower control arm mounting bolts.
• This does not replace an alignment, but it helps keep the vehicle close enough to drive safely to the alignment shop.

Step 5: Disconnect the Lower Ball Joint

• Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint stud, if equipped.
• Use a 19mm socket or 19mm wrench to loosen and remove the lower ball joint nut.
• Install the ball joint separator between the lower control arm and steering knuckle.
• Use the correct wrench or socket for your ball joint separator to tighten the tool until the ball joint pops loose.
• Support the knuckle by hand and avoid pulling on the brake hose or ABS wire.

Step 6: Remove the Front Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to remove the front lower control arm mounting bolt and nut.
• If the bolt is tight from rust, apply penetrating oil and work it back and forth slowly.
• Slow movement helps prevent broken bolts.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Control Arm Mounting Bolts

• Use a 17mm socket or 18mm socket to remove the rear lower control arm bracket bolts, depending on the bolt head fitted.
• Use a breaker bar if the bolts are tight.
• Keep one hand on the control arm as the last bolt comes out so it does not drop suddenly.

Step 8: Remove the Lower Control Arm

• Use a pry bar to gently work the lower control arm out of the subframe pockets.
• Use a rubber mallet to tap the control arm free if it is stuck.
• Do not pry against brake lines, ABS wiring, or the CV axle boot.

Step 9: Compare the New Control Arm

• Place the new front lower control arm assembly next to the old one.
• Confirm the bushing shape, ball joint direction, and mounting points match.
• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the smooth shank of reusable bolts only. Do not apply it to the bolt threads unless specified by the fastener instructions.

Step 10: Install the New Control Arm

• Slide the new lower control arm into the subframe pockets by hand.
• Use a rubber mallet if gentle tapping is needed.
• Install the front and rear mounting bolts by hand first.
• Use an 18mm socket, 18mm wrench, 17mm socket, or 17mm wrench as needed to snug the bolts only.
• Do not fully tighten the bushing bolts yet.

Step 11: Reconnect the Lower Ball Joint

• Guide the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the new ball joint nut.
• Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lower ball joint nut to Torque to 61-75 Nm (45-55 ft-lbs).
• If equipped with a castle nut, continue tightening only enough to line up the cotter pin hole.
• Use needle-nose pliers to install a new cotter pin.

Step 12: Preload the Suspension Before Final Tightening

• Use the floor jack under the outer end of the lower control arm to raise it until the suspension is close to normal ride height.
• Normal ride height means the control arm is sitting about where it would be with the car on the ground.
• This step protects the new rubber bushings from being twisted at rest.

Step 13: Final-Tighten the Control Arm Bolts

• Use an 18mm socket, 18mm wrench, and torque wrench to tighten the front lower control arm mounting bolt to Torque to 103-123 Nm (76-91 ft-lbs).
• Use a 17mm socket or 18mm socket with the torque wrench to tighten the rear lower control arm bracket bolts to Torque to 103-123 Nm (76-91 ft-lbs).
• Lower and remove the floor jack from under the control arm after tightening.

Step 14: Repeat on the Other Side

• Use the same tools and steps to replace the lower control arm on the opposite side.
• Always compare the new part to the old part before installation.
• Left and right arms are different.

Step 15: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Place each wheel back onto the hub.
• Use a 21mm socket to install the lug nuts by hand.
• Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern using the 21mm socket.

Step 16: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to raise the vehicle slightly and remove the jack stands.
• Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
• Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel left and right while parked. Listen for binding, popping, or rubbing.
• ✅ Test drive slowly at first. Check for clunks, pulling, or steering wheel off-center.
• ✅ Schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible. Suspension control arm replacement changes alignment angles.
• ✅ Recheck the wheel lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a 21mm socket and torque wrench.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is far off-center or the car pulls hard, do not keep driving before alignment.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only, alignment not included)

You Save: $350-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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