🔧 4Runner - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

On your 4Runner, the front suspension uses a strut assembly (shock + coil spring together). Replacing the struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and can fix clunks caused by worn strut mounts or internal strut wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never loosen the center strut-top nut with the spring loaded; the coil spring stores a lot of energy.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ If you’re not using a complete “quick strut” assembly, a spring compressor is required and can be dangerous if misused.
• ⚠️ After strut replacement, your 4Runner needs a front-end alignment to prevent tire wear and pulling.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm-22mm, 1/2")
• Wrench set (10mm-22mm)
• 21mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 6mm hex key socket
• Pry bar (18")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Bungee cord
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies (complete “quick strut”) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• OR Front struts (cartridges/shocks only) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mounts/bearings - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front bump stops and dust boots - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar link nuts - Qty: 2
• New lower strut bolts and nuts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts with a 21mm socket before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts and sway bar link hardware.
• If using a spring compressor: inspect the tool for damage and keep your body out of the spring’s “line of fire.” Quick struts avoid spring-compressor work.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of your 4Runner at the front jack point.
• Set the frame down securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and take off both front wheels.

Step 2: Remove brackets/lines from the strut

• Locate the brake hose/ABS wire brackets on the strut body.
• Remove bracket bolts using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket (varies by bracket).
• Move the lines aside so they are not stretched. Use a bungee cord if needed.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar link (if it blocks removal)

• Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 17mm socket.
• If the stud spins, hold it with a 6mm hex key socket while turning the nut with a 17mm wrench.
• A little penetrating oil helps a lot.

Step 4: Support the lower control arm

• Place the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the lower control arm near the ball joint area.
• Jack up slightly to support the suspension so it doesn’t drop suddenly when bolts come out.

Step 5: Remove the lower strut bolts

• Mark the position of the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts with a paint marker (helps keep alignment close).
• Remove the two lower strut bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar (1/2").
• Tap the bolts out if needed using a pry bar (18") to relieve tension and wiggle the knuckle.

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood and locate the three upper strut mount nuts on the strut tower.
• Remove the three nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Leave the center nut alone (do not remove it unless the spring is safely compressed).

Step 7: Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle

• Lower the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) slightly to create clearance.
• Pull the strut assembly out of the wheel well. Use a pry bar (18") gently if needed.
• Be careful not to tug on the axle, brake hose, or ABS wire.

Step 8: If using “quick struts,” skip to Step 10

• If you are reusing the spring, install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the coil spring.
• Tighten each side evenly with a socket set (8mm-22mm, 1/2") until the spring is loose from the top mount.
• Now remove the center top nut using a socket set (8mm-22mm, 1/2") while holding the shaft with a 6mm hex key socket if required.
• Transfer the mount/bearing, boot, and bump stop to the new strut.
• Even compression is safer than “one side at a time.”

Step 9: Assemble the new strut (non-quick strut route)

• Install the spring onto the new strut, then install the upper mount/bearing in the same orientation as removed.
• Tighten the center top nut using a torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) for the strut shaft nut.
• Slowly loosen the spring compressor (specialty) evenly until the spring seats fully.

Step 10: Install the strut into the strut tower

• Guide the strut into place and start the three upper mount nuts by hand.
• Tighten the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs) for the upper mount nuts.

Step 11: Install the lower strut bolts

• Line up the lower strut holes with the knuckle and insert the bolts.
• Use a pry bar (18") to fine-adjust alignment while the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) supports the arm.
• Install the nuts and tighten using a 19mm socket and torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to 200 Nm (148 ft-lbs) for the lower strut bolts/nuts.

Step 12: Reconnect sway bar link and reinstall brackets

• Reinstall the sway bar end link nut using a 17mm socket, holding the stud with a 6mm hex key socket if it spins.
• Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs) for the sway bar link nut.
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS wire brackets using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket.

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs) for the lug nuts.

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✅ After Repair

• Start your 4Runner and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm nothing is rubbing or pulling on a line.
• Test drive slowly and listen for clunks over small bumps.
• Get a front-end alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs range).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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