How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shocks on a 2018 Honda Fit (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts, safety tips, and key torque specs plus alignment advice
How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shocks on a 2018 Honda Fit (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts, safety tips, and key torque specs plus alignment advice


š§ Fit - Shock/Strut Replacement (Front Struts + Rear Shocks)
Your Fit uses front MacPherson struts (spring + shock as one unit) and rear shocks (separate from the rear springs). Replacing worn dampers restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing/uneven tire wear.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours
ā ļø Safety & Precautions
- ā ļø Never work under a car supported only by a jackāuse jack stands on solid ground.
- ā ļø Front struts require a coil spring compressor; the spring stores high energy and can cause severe injury if released suddenly.
- ā ļø Keep hands/face out of the springās āline of fireā while compressing.
- ā ļø After front strut replacement, you should get a 4-wheel alignment.
- ā ļø If any fastener feels like itās stripping or cross-threading, stop and correct it.
š§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (1/2")
- Torque wrench (3/8")
- Socket set (8mm-22mm)
- Wrench set (10mm-19mm)
- Deep socket set (10mm-19mm)
- 6mm hex key socket
- Pry bar (12"-18")
- Flat trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Rubber mallet
- Coil spring compressor (specialty)
- Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)
š© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount/bearing kits - If not included with assemblies - Qty: 2
- Front strut dust boot + bump stop kits - If not included - Qty: 2
- Rear shock upper bushings/hardware kit - If not included - Qty: 1
š Before You Begin
- š æļø Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels before lifting the front.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Spray penetrating oil on front strut-to-knuckle bolts and rear shock bolts.
- If youāre using complete strut assemblies, you can skip spring-compressing (much safer for first-timers).
šØ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the wheels
- Use a floor jack to lift the front at the center jacking point, then support with jack stands.
- Remove the front wheels using a 19mm socket.
- Repeat for the rear when youāre ready to do the rear shocks.
Step 2: Remove the front strut from the car (one side at a time)
- On the strut body, remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets using a 10mm socket (or 12mm socket depending on bracket).
- Use a paint marker to mark the relationship of the strut to the steering knuckle. Helps keep alignment closer.
- Remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut bracket using a 14mm wrench and hold the stud with a 6mm hex key socket if it spins.
- Support the steering knuckle lightly with a floor jack.
- Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
- Under the hood, remove the strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Lower and remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
Step 3: Swap to new front strut (complete assembly recommended)
- If you bought complete strut assemblies, install them as-is and skip to Step 4.
- If reusing springs: use a coil spring compressor (specialty) (a tool that squeezes the spring shorter so itās not pushing on the top nut).
- Compress the spring evenly, alternating sides with a ratchet and socket set until the spring is loose at the top mount.
- Remove the strut shaft nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty).
- Transfer spring, dust boot, bump stop, and top mount to the new strut, then tighten the shaft nut securely (torque varies by strut manufacturerāfollow the part instructions).
- Slowly release the spring compressor, ensuring the spring ends sit correctly in their seats.
Step 4: Reinstall the front strut
- Position the strut in the tower and hand-start the top nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Align the strut to the knuckle using your paint marks and install the two lower bolts/nuts using a 17mm socket.
- Torque strut-to-knuckle bolts to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
- Torque strut mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
- Reattach sway bar end link using a 14mm wrench and 6mm hex key socket.
- Torque sway bar end link nut to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket.
- Double-check the hose isnāt twisted.
Step 5: Replace the rear shocks
- Lift the rear with a floor jack and support with jack stands, then remove rear wheels using a 19mm socket.
- Support the rear suspension arm slightly with a floor jack so the shock isnāt under tension.
- Remove the lower rear shock bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
- Access the upper rear shock mount inside the cargo area (you may need to pull back trim) using a flat trim tool.
- Remove the upper shock nut using a 14mm socket (hold the shaft if required per shock design).
- Remove the old shock and install the new shock in the same orientation.
- Hand-start the upper nut, then install the lower bolt.
- Torque rear lower shock bolt to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs).
- Torque rear upper shock nut to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Reinstall wheels and lower the car
- Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
- Lower the car and final-tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench (1/2").
- Torque wheel lug nuts to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
ā After Repair
- š Do a slow test drive and listen for clunks over bumps.
- Recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench (1/2") after 25ā50 miles.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (front struts affect alignment).
- If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, donāt delay the alignment.
š° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,700 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only)
You Save: $600-$800 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.
šÆ Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















