🔧 CX-5 - Strut Replacement

On your CX-5, the front suspension uses strut assemblies (strut + spring), while the rear uses a separate shock and coil spring (not a rear “strut”). The exact steps and torque specs change depending on which end you’re replacing and whether you’re swapping complete assemblies or reusing the springs.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-6 hours

• ❓ Are you replacing front struts only, rear shocks only, or all four corners?
• ❓ Do you have complete quick-strut assemblies (pre-built with spring/top mount) or bare struts (you must transfer the spring/top mount)?

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never get under the CX-5 supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• ⚠️ If you’re transferring springs, a coil spring compressor is required; the spring stores enough energy to cause severe injury if released suddenly.
• ⚠️ Keep your hands clear of pinch points when lowering the control arm/knuckle.
• ⚠️ Avoid pulling or twisting the ABS wheel speed sensor wire and brake hose while the knuckle is loose.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Socket set (10mm-22mm)
• Wrench set (10mm-22mm)
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs)
• Pry bar (18")
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Punch set (5mm-10mm)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assembly OR front strut (cartridge) - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing kit - Qty: 2
• Front bump stop + dust boot kit - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Qty: 2
• Rear shock upper mount/bushing kit - Qty: 2
• Rear bump stop + dust boot kit - Qty: 2
• New self-locking nuts/bolts for strut-to-knuckle and mounts - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the wheels that stay on the ground using wheel chocks.
• Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on major fasteners (strut-to-knuckle bolts, sway bar link nut) and let it soak.
• If using a spring compressor: read its instructions first; a coil spring compressor clamps the spring so it can be removed safely.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which procedure applies

• Reply with your answers to the 2 questions in the Overview so I can provide the correct axle procedure and the exact OEM torque specs for your configuration.
• Until then, do not remove the top mount nuts or compress any springs.

Step 2: Safe lift and wheel removal (common to front/rear)

• Use a floor jack to lift at the correct jacking point, then support with jack stands.
• Remove the wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 3: Stop point (to avoid wrong/unsafe steps)

• Because front vs rear and quick-strut vs bare strut change the order and safety-critical steps, I’ll provide the full numbered procedure (with Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs)) immediately after you answer the two questions.

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✅ After Repair

• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible after front strut work.
• Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks and re-check fasteners.
• Re-torque lug nuts with a torque wrench after a short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $800-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.