🔧 Highlander - Strut Replacement

On your Highlander, the front suspension uses true strut assemblies (spring + shock together). The rear typically uses shocks with separate coil springs (so the “rear struts” people mention are usually the rear shocks).

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (front pair); 1.5-3 hours (rear pair)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack—use jack stands on solid ground.
• ⚠️ If transferring springs, a coil spring is stored energy—use a proper spring compressor and keep hands/face out of the spring’s path.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves; rust flakes fall fast.
• 🛞 Chock rear wheels when lifting the front; chock front wheels when lifting the rear.
• 🧭 Any front strut replacement can affect alignment—plan a 4-wheel alignment after.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Combination wrench set (10mm–22mm)
• Hex key set (5mm–8mm)
• Pry bar (24")
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut dust boot & bump stop kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front stabilizer (sway) bar link - Replace in pairs (if worn) - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock upper/lower hardware kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks.
• Break the lug nuts loose 1/4 turn with a 21mm socket before lifting.
• Soak strut-to-knuckle bolts, sway link nuts, and rear shock bolts with penetrating oil for 10–15 minutes.
• If you’re not using complete strut assemblies, have a spring compressor ready (it clamps the spring so it can’t expand).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm what you’re replacing (needed for exact torque specs)

• Your Highlander has front struts and typically rear shocks (not rear struts).
• Please answer these 2 quick questions so I can give the correct factory torque specs and exact steps:
• 1) Are you replacing front struts, rear shocks, or all four?
• 2) For the front, are you installing complete quick-strut assemblies or reusing your coil springs?

Step 2: Lift and support the vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the correct jacking point, then set it down on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 3: (Front) Disconnect lines and sway link from the strut

• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket (varies by bracket).
• Remove the stabilizer (sway) bar link nut at the strut using a 17mm socket; hold the stud with a hex key if it spins.
• Tip: Paint-mark bolt positions before removal.

Step 4: (Front) Separate the strut from the steering knuckle

• Support the knuckle/lower control arm with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
• Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar (some hardware may be larger on certain builds).
• If stuck, tap bolts out with a hammer (2 lb) and use a pry bar (24") to help separate.
• Torque specs will be provided after your 2 answers.

Step 5: (Front) Remove the strut assembly from the body

• Open the hood.
• Remove the upper strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket (count and keep them organized).
• Carefully lower and remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 6: (Front) Install the new strut assembly

• Position the new strut in the tower and hand-start the upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Align the strut to the knuckle and reinstall the lower bolts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Reconnect sway link using a 17mm socket and hold with a hex key if needed.
• Reattach ABS/brake hose brackets using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket.
• Torque to OEM spec (I’ll provide exact numbers once you confirm your setup).

Step 7: (Rear shocks) Remove and replace (if you’re doing the rear)

• Lift the rear, support with jack stands, remove wheels with a 21mm socket.
• Support the rear suspension arm slightly with the floor jack.
• Remove lower shock bolt using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Access and remove the upper shock mount nuts/bolt using a 14mm socket (access path varies; I’ll map it to your exact configuration after your answers).
• Install the new rear shock and tighten all hardware with a torque wrench.
• Torque to OEM spec (I’ll provide exact numbers once you confirm front/rear scope).

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle off jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench to the correct OEM spec.

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✅ After Repair

• Do a slow test drive and listen for clunks over small bumps.
• Recheck all visible fasteners and brackets after the first drive.
• Schedule a 4-wheel alignment (especially after front struts).
• If steering wheel is off-center after, do not ignore it—get aligned soon.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only, depending on quick-struts vs parts)

You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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