How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shocks on a 2013-2015 Honda Accord (DIY Guide) (Trim: Sport | Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth install
How to Replace Front Struts & Rear Shocks on a 2013-2015 Honda Accord (DIY Guide) (Trim: Sport | Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth install for 2013, 2014, 2015
🔧 Accord - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement
On your Accord, the front suspension uses strut assemblies (a shock + coil spring together), while the rear uses separate shock absorbers (the spring is separate). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing and uneven tire wear.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (front + rear)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never loosen the center nut on a front strut without a spring compressor; the spring is under high tension.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep the steering knuckle supported so you don’t over-stretch the brake hose/ABS wire.
- ⚠️ After front strut replacement, an alignment is required to prevent pulling and tire wear.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug nut socket 19mm
- Ratchet 3/8"
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Socket 12mm
- Socket 14mm
- Socket 17mm
- Socket 19mm
- Wrench 14mm
- Wrench 17mm
- Torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs
- Flat trim tool
- Pry bar 18"
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Spring compressor (specialty)
- Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front upper strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
- Front strut-to-knuckle self-locking nuts - Qty: 4
- Rear upper shock mount nuts - Qty: 4
- Rear lower shock bolts/nuts - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, put the transmission in Park, and chock the rear wheels (if starting on the front).
- Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting the car using a 19mm socket.
- Spray suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 5–10 minutes.
- If you are not using complete front strut assemblies: a spring compressor is required. A spring compressor is a tool that safely squeezes the coil spring so it can’t “jump” when disassembled.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm what you’re replacing
- Decide if you’re doing front struts, rear shocks, or all four.
- If doing fronts, decide whether you’re installing complete strut assemblies (easier) or swapping springs onto new struts (requires spring compressor (specialty)).
- Complete assemblies are best for beginners.
Step 2: Lift the car and remove the wheels
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front or rear, then support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and take the wheels off.
Step 3: Front strut removal (one side at a time)
- Unclip/remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 12mm socket and flat trim tool.
- Remove the stabilizer (sway bar) end link nut from the strut using a 14mm wrench and 14mm socket.
- Support the steering knuckle from below with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
- Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a breaker bar 1/2" with 17mm and 19mm sockets.
- Under the hood, remove the three upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Pull the strut assembly out of the wheel well.
Step 4: Front strut disassembly (only if NOT using complete assemblies)
- Mark the spring and mount orientation with a paint marker so it goes back the same way.
- Install the spring compressor (specialty) evenly on both sides of the spring and compress until the spring is loose in the seats.
- Remove the center strut nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) and ratchet 3/8".
- Transfer the spring and mount to the new strut, then tighten the center nut.
- Slowly release the spring compressor, making sure the spring ends seat correctly.
Step 5: Front strut installation
- Set the strut into place and hand-thread the three upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Line up the strut-to-knuckle holes (use a pry bar 18" if needed) and install the bolts/nuts using 17mm and 19mm sockets.
- Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 14mm wrench and 14mm socket.
- Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 12mm socket.
- Tighten fasteners to spec using a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs:
- Torque the front upper mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
- Torque the front strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs)
- Torque the front stabilizer end link nut to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
Step 6: Rear shock removal (one side at a time)
- Open the trunk and pull back the side trunk lining using a flat trim tool to access the shock upper mount nuts.
- Support the rear suspension arm slightly with the floor jack.
- Remove the rear lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
- Remove the two upper mount nuts inside the trunk using a 14mm socket.
- Remove the rear shock from under the car.
Step 7: Rear shock installation
- Install the new rear shock and hand-start the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket.
- Torque fasteners to spec using a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs:
- Torque the rear upper shock mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
- Torque the rear lower shock bolt to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs)
- Reinstall the trunk liner using the flat trim tool.
Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the car
- Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
- Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack.
- Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Do a slow test drive and listen for clunks, pops, or rubbing.
- Re-check lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment after replacing the front struts.
- If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, stop and get aligned before longer driving.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, front + rear)
DIY Cost: $280-$850 (parts only, depends on complete front assemblies vs struts only)
You Save: $620-$950 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Suspension Strut and Coil Spring Assembly replace for these Honda vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2015 Honda Accord | EX | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2015 Honda Accord | EX-L | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2015 Honda Accord | EX-L | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2015 Honda Accord | LX | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2015 Honda Accord | LX-S | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2015 Honda Accord | Sport | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2015 Honda Accord | Touring | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2014 Honda Accord | EX | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2014 Honda Accord | EX-L | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2014 Honda Accord | EX-L | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2014 Honda Accord | LX | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2014 Honda Accord | LX-S | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2014 Honda Accord | Sport | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2014 Honda Accord | Touring | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2013 Honda Accord | EX | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2013 Honda Accord | EX-L | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2013 Honda Accord | EX-L | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2013 Honda Accord | LX | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2013 Honda Accord | LX-S | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2013 Honda Accord | Sport | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2013 Honda Accord | Touring | V6 3.5L | - |


















