🔧 Explorer - Shock/Strut Replacement

On your Explorer, the rear uses traditional shock absorbers, but the front uses complete strut assemblies (a shock + spring as one unit). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and improves braking stability.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: Rear: 1.5-3.0 hours (both) / Front: 3.0-6.0 hours (both)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Explorer with jack stands on solid points; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Front struts contain a compressed spring; if you disassemble a strut, use a coil spring compressor (specialty) correctly or use complete quick-struts to avoid spring transfer.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of suspension pinch points when raising/lowering the knuckle or control arm.
• ⚠️ After front strut replacement, a professional alignment is required to prevent tire wear and pulling.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 20-250 Nm range)
• Socket set (8mm-24mm, 1/2" drive)
• Wrench set (8mm-24mm)
• Torx bit set (T30-T50)
• Pry bar (18")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut spreader tool (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front complete strut assemblies (quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts - Qty: 4
• Rear shock mounting nuts and bolts - Qty: 4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the steering wheel straight, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the lug nuts slightly using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray all shock/strut fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 10–15 minutes.
• If you’re doing the front and you bought bare struts (not quick-struts), plan to use a coil spring compressor (specialty). A coil spring compressor is a tool that safely compresses the spring so you can remove the top mount.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Decide what you’re replacing (rear shocks vs front struts)

• If you mean rear shock absorbers, follow Steps 2–7.
• If you mean the front strut assemblies, follow Steps 8–17.
• Most owners replace left + right together.

Step 2: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at the proper lift point, then set it on jack stands.
• Remove both rear wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 3: Support the rear suspension arm

• Place the floor jack lightly under the rear lower control arm (or arm near the shock mount) to support it.

Step 4: Remove the rear shock lower bolt

• Use the correct size socket and wrench (commonly 18mm–21mm) to remove the lower shock bolt/nut.
• Keep the jack under the arm so the bolt isn’t under bind.

Step 5: Remove the rear shock upper fastener(s)

• Access the upper mount area and remove the upper shock fastener(s) using the appropriate socket and wrench.
• Remove the shock from the vehicle.

Step 6: Install the new rear shock

• Position the new shock and start the upper fastener(s) by hand.
• Install the lower bolt/nut by hand, using the floor jack to slightly raise/lower the arm until the bolt slides in.

Step 7: Torque the rear shock fasteners and reinstall wheels

• Use a torque wrench to tighten rear shock fasteners: Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs) lower and Torque to 66 Nm (49 ft-lbs) upper.
• Reinstall wheels using a 21mm socket, then lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Lift and secure the front

• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front and set it on jack stands.
• Remove both front wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 9: Mark alignment reference points

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the strut-to-knuckle connection to help keep it close during reassembly.
• This is not a substitute for alignment.

Step 10: Disconnect brackets and the stabilizer link (as needed)

• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using the appropriate socket (often 10mm) or Torx bit.
• If the stabilizer (sway) link is attached to the strut, remove the nut using a socket and Torx bit to hold the stud from spinning (common Ford setup).
• Reinstall later: Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs) (stabilizer link nut).

Step 11: Separate the strut from the steering knuckle

• Support the knuckle so it doesn’t drop or pull on the CV axle using the floor jack.
• Remove the strut-to-knuckle fasteners using a breaker bar with the correct socket and wrench.
• If needed, use a strut spreader tool (specialty) to slightly open the knuckle clamp so the strut can slide out. A strut spreader is a wedge tool that gently opens the clamp without damaging it.

Step 12: Remove the strut top nuts

• Open the hood.
• Hold the strut from below, then remove the top mount nuts using a socket and ratchet.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 13: If using quick-struts, skip spring transfer

• If you bought complete strut assemblies (quick-struts), do not disassemble anything—move to Step 15.
• If you bought bare struts, compress the spring using a coil spring compressor (specialty) and transfer the mount/bearing as required.
• If you’re unsure, use quick-struts.

Step 14: Prepare the new strut assembly for install

• Compare old vs new parts (mount orientation, bracket locations) before installing.
• Make sure the top mount studs line up with the holes in the body.

Step 15: Install the front strut assembly

• Place the strut into the tower and hand-thread the top nuts using a socket.
• Slide the strut into the knuckle and install the lower fasteners by hand using the correct socket and wrench.

Step 16: Torque front fasteners and reinstall brackets

• Tighten strut-to-knuckle fasteners using a torque wrench: Torque to 250 Nm (184 ft-lbs).
• Tighten top mount nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
• Reattach brake hose/ABS brackets using the correct socket or Torx bit.
• Reconnect stabilizer link (if removed) and torque: Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall wheels using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive slowly and listen for clunks over small bumps.
• Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25–50 miles.
• If you replaced front struts, schedule a 4-wheel alignment immediately.
• If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, do not delay the alignment.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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