🔧 Civic - Strut Replacement

On your Civic, the front uses strut assemblies (strut + coil spring), and the rear uses a separate shock (the spring is separate). Replacing worn struts/shocks restores ride control, braking stability, and tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the Civic on jack stands; never work under a jack.
• ⚠️ Coil springs store extreme energy—if you are not installing complete “quick-strut” assemblies, you’ll use a spring compressor (a tool that squeezes the spring so it can be safely removed).
• ⚠️ Keep hands/face out of the spring’s path when compressed.
• ⚠️ After front strut replacement, get a 4-wheel alignment ASAP to prevent tire wear and pulling.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" (30-200 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench 3/8" (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• 19mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 19mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 14mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Rubber mallet
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Allen key set

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies (quick-strut) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing kit - If not included with quick-struts - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end links - Recommended if boots are torn or joints are loose - Qty: 2
• Rear upper shock mount kit - Recommended if mounts are cracked/noisy - Qty: 2
• Replacement strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Optional if hardware is corroded - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels (for front work) or in front of the front wheels (for rear work).
• Loosen the wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the front strut lower bolts and rear lower shock bolts and let it soak.
• If you are not using complete quick-struts, set up your spring compressor and inspect it for damage before use.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the center front jacking point.
• Set the Civic on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the pinch welds.
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Disconnect brackets and the sway bar link (front)

• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 12mm socket or 10mm socket (varies by bracket).
• Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 14mm wrench and Allen key set (use the Allen to hold the stud if it spins).

Step 3: Mark camber reference (front)

• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and the steering knuckle around the lower bolt area. This helps keep alignment close.

Step 4: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts (front)

• Support the knuckle lightly with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop suddenly.
• Remove the two large lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2", holding the other side with a 19mm wrench.
• If the bolts are stuck, tap them out with a rubber mallet and use a pry bar to separate the knuckle from the strut.

Step 5: Remove the upper strut mount nuts (front)

• Open the hood and locate the three strut mount nuts at the top of each strut tower.
• Remove the three nuts with a 14mm socket while holding the strut with your other hand so it doesn’t fall.
• Remove the strut assembly out through the wheel well.

Step 6: Swap in the new front strut (quick-strut path)

• Position the new strut assembly in the tower and hand-thread the three top nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Slide the knuckle onto the strut and install the two lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
• Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs) for the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a torque wrench 1/2".
• Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) for the upper strut mount nuts using a torque wrench 3/8" and 14mm socket.

Step 7: Reconnect the sway bar link and brackets (front)

• Install the sway bar end link nut using a 14mm wrench and Allen key set as needed.
• Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 3/8" (use the best tool access you have).
• Reinstall the brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket.
• Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs) for the brake hose bracket bolt using a torque wrench 3/8".

Step 8: Lift and remove the rear wheels

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at the center rear jacking point.
• Set the Civic on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the pinch welds.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 9: Access the rear shock upper nuts (rear)

• In the trunk, pull back the side trunk liner near each rear shock using a trim clip tool and flathead screwdriver.
• Locate the rear shock upper mount nuts.
• Loosen (but do not fully remove) the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.

Step 10: Remove the rear shock lower bolt (rear)

• Support the rear lower control arm slightly with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.

Step 11: Remove and install the rear shock (rear)

• Remove the upper mount nuts fully using a 14mm socket, then remove the shock.
• Install the new shock and hand-thread the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
• Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) for the lower shock bolt using a torque wrench 1/2".
• Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs) for the upper mount nuts using a torque wrench 3/8".

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall all wheels and snug the lug nuts with a 19mm socket.
• Lower the Civic using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) for lug nuts using a torque wrench 1/2" and 19mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks and verify straight braking.
• Recheck all visible fasteners and brackets after the test drive.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is ideal).
• If you replaced only one side, expect uneven handling—replace struts/shocks in pairs.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,700 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only, plus alignment)

You Save: $550-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

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Two quick questions so I can tailor this perfectly:

• 🔎 Are you replacing front struts only, rear shocks only, or all four?
• 🔎 Are you installing quick-strut assemblies (complete) or reusing your existing springs with a spring compressor?